Cimarosa Californian Zinfandel Rosé
You know how it goes: We liked that bottle of Chateau Wotsit last time, so we try it again and we’re very disappointed. Why? What went wrong?
Well there’s a good chance we’d unwittingly picked, say, the merlot 2010 when in fact the one we’d enjoyed before was a 2011 cabernet merlot. It’s a bit like cars — even when the make is the same, different models are designed to do different things and perhaps only one or two of them might suit you.
So if you’re taking a recommendation from a tipple tipster make sure you get the full name, year, grape (if it’s specified) and whether it’s a reserve etc. And if you want a repeat performance with a wine you enjoyed yourself, put the camera on your phone to the best use it’ll ever have, and take clear snaps of the labels front and back.
The phenomenon was illustrated a few times at a tasting of Lidl’s wine range in Dublin earlier this week — a repeat of their invaluable tasting of their entire range last February. Tasting new vintages caused a handful of dramatic reversals. For instance, last time round, I found the Reserva (it was the 2005 vintage) by far the best of their Spanish Cepa Lebrel range, and its crianza stable mate quite commendable.
This time round though, the crianza far surpasses the latest reserva vintage Lidl has moved on to. Similarly, among Lidl’s Rhône range, their Vacqueyras and Châteauneuf-du-Pape swapped places in my esteem between last February and now. Right — time to pack pen and notepad (and even a camera phone) and let’s go take a look as some of the highlights below.
¦ This is my last column as I’m moving on to focus on other things here at the Irish Examiner.
I’ve loved every minute of it, and raise a glass to wish a fond farewell to my fellow wine fans. And even more importantly, the fun and flavour of wine continue on these pages next week with Leslie Williams — make sure you join him here. Sláinte!
The sweet ‘white zin’ or ‘blush’ style of rosé isn’t to everyone’s taste but when it’s done well it can be just the ticket. This example is top-class and right up there with the likes of Gallo Family White Zinfandel at a fraction of the price. A modest 10% ABV, it’s saucy and fruity and boasts something you don’t always get — a delicious lick of the red grape’s ripe character showing through on the nose.
I really liked the 2005 reserva back in February but we’ve moved on and I wouldn’t favour the current (2007) Reserva (€7.49). Not good at all. This though is a terrifically complex, savoury Rioja. I’d rate it far higher than its nice smoky Joven counterpart too.
I confess I was terrified at the prospect of a South African red (particularly a pinotage) — especially for less than a fiver. But it actually rocks. Plashy red fruit augmented (rather than over-whelmed) by a whiff of that tarry, smoky character that is common with the pinotage grape.
Although not replete with the smoky character that gives the appellation its name, this bottle is quite simply a very good Loire sauvignon blanc at a pretty modest price for what you’re getting. And you can’t argue with that. And if you like big chardonnay, check out the rich, expressive Cimarosa Chilean Chardonnay Barrel Selection (€7.99).
Here’s another reversal from the last Lidl tasting. I found this vintage of the Châteauneuf as ripe, generous and spicy as you’d want from a really good southern Rhône red. Last time out I favoured its near neighbour Vacqueyras, and the 2010 vintage (€9.49) is drinking reasonably well but really it’s a bit more muted than you might expect or desire.
With its terrific scent and crisp, bright, red fruit bedded in a lovely creamy texture, this is highly gluggable with all the interest of a quality red. Check out too the Cimarosa Chilean Cab Sauv 2011, an astonishingly confident, correct cabernet at just €4.49.
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