Wine: San Giorgio Pinot Grigio Garganega IGT Venezie 2011
That sum is the difference in price between an interesting pair of bottles among a few dozen featured at a tasting hosted by Searsons Wine Merchants earlier this week.
Both Italian whites, made by the same winery San Giorgio, in the same year, in (yes, you guessed it) the same region. Both feature the pinot grigio grape, the main difference being that one of them is a blend with garganega. Due to appellation rules, while the straight pinot grigio bears the rank of denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) the blend is the ‘lower’ indicazione geografica tipica (IGT).
So which one is better? Well, as is so often the case, it doesn’t work that way. They’re alternate styles, each with its own attraction, and while I have no hesitation plumping for one (below) its counterpart has plenty to offer too and deserves a mention — indeed it could enliven a light dinner to open a bottle of each for the sake of comparison.
That pair of whites was but one of the interesting line up at a snapshot tasting hosted by Searsons Wine Merchants. There was some tremendous fare there. This, combined with Searsons (and the other wine wholesalers) importance to the sometimes neglected independent off-licences deserves more attention so I’m looking at whites this week, reds next week.
See www.searsons.com for a comprehensive map and list of stockists which include the following. Nationwide Next Door; Clare Jayne’s, Ennis; Cork Branches of the O’Donovan’s chain of off-licences; The 1601 in Kinsale. Dublin Power & Smullen, Lucan; The Lord Mayors, Swords; McHugh’s Malahide Road, Artane; Lilac Wines, Artane; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Redmonds’ Ranelagh; Liston’s Food Hall Lr Camden Street; Drinkstore, Manor Street. Kildare Mill Wine Cellar, Maynooth. Limerick Desmond’s Next Door, Raheen. Mayo Fahy’s, Ballina. Waterford Ardkeen Quality Foodstore. Wicklow Cheers at the Wicklow Arms, Delgany.
Of the two pinot grigios by San Giorgio, this is the one I’d favour: the garganega grape bequeaths it a softer, broader texture and whiff of vanilla: a breadth which forms a fine counterbalance to the excellent, upright acidity of its counterpart Pinot grigio della Venezie DOC 2011 (€10).
Assertive, fresh, with a playful whiff of greenery and a nice rounded texture this emerged from amid a string of sauvignons as the Goldilocks choice (just right): a better more alert presence than the competent Main à Main (€10) and less wild and uncompromising than the extravagant brassicas of the Viña Leyda Reserva 2011 (€11.70).
An old favourite of this column, and a rare example of that arcane item — a non-vintage table wine. Delightfully aromatic and with a little nod towards the fleshiness and sweetness of the moscato grape it’s made with, it’s a great contender, along with the likes of Argentinean Torrontés, as an ideal companion to spicy dishes.
I’ll say it yet again: “Quelle surprise!” Much of the great quality and value at the Searsons tastings hailed from a handful of spots in France. And yet again here’s a classy Rhône white. Entirely different to either sauvignon and chardonnay, it’s all gorgeous plump nutty peaches and spice.
Yes, we all know what sauvignon blanc is like. But there really is an extra dimension to the ones made along the Loire. This affordable and attractive bottle is lipsmackingly fish friendly. It also shares a delightful smoky whiff with the posh Pouilly-Fumé appellation in the same neighbourhood.
Not as approachable in price as some other excellent cavas and proseccos, but bloody good nevertheless — and really good value compared to Champagne. This delightful traditional Italian sparkler boasts fresh, elegant long-lasting fizz with a lovely touch of that fermented-in-bottle yeasty breadiness. It rocks.
