Weekend food with Darina Allen

MEAT Free Monday — the whole idea continues to garner approval — there’s a million good reasons why this is a brilliantly good idea.

Weekend food with Darina Allen

Between 1961 and 2007 the world population increased by a factor of 2.2. In the same period total meat production quadrupled and poultry consumption increased 10-fold.

Consequently the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) estimate that livestock production is responsible for up to 18% of global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, although some estimates put the figure as high as 50%.

Nutritionists and doctors remind us that there are definite health benefits to reducing our consumption of meat.

According to the World Health Organisation we eat considerably more protein than is considered necessary or optimal for good health.

A meat-and-dairy-heavy diet is now being linked to some of the world’s biggest killer diseases, cancer, heart disease and stroke.

Animal welfare issues involved with some intensive methods of food production continue to cause concern and then there are the fish: it has been estimated that if current fishing trends continue, there will be no fish left by 2048.

Industrialised fishing vessels with their football pitch-sized nets or lines of hooks a mile long devastate coral reefs and ocean beds, kill and injure marine wildlife including dolphins, turtles and sea birds, and are pushing the oceans to the brink of environmental collapse.

In the current economic climate there are many other compelling reasons to remind ourselves that vegetables are by far the most important food group.

To support The Meat Free Monday campaign — which was started by the McCartney family in St John’s Park in London in June 2009, Paul, Stella and Mary McCartney have now come together to write the foreword for Meat Free Monday Cookbook published by Kyle Books.

It is packed with many delicious recipes where you won’t miss the meat.

* For ingredients in some of these recipes, follow the method for details.

Cheesy Kale Gratin

Serves 4-6

Preheat the oven to 190C/gas mark 5.

Remove the stalks from 250g kale and shred finely.

Plunge into boiling water for 30–60 seconds, then refresh under cold water.

Set aside.

Melt 25g (1oz) butter in a saucepan, stir in 25g (1oz) plain flour and cook for two minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and gradually blend in 450ml (16fl oz) full fat organic milk, stirring well.

Place back on the heat and bring gently to the boil, stirring continuously until thickened and smooth. Crumble in 125g (4½oz) goat’s cheese. Add ½ teaspoon mustard powder and salt and freshly ground black pepper, and mix well.

Place the kale in an ovenproof dish, then spoon over the sauce.

Combine 75g (3oz) breadcrumbs and one tablespoon caraway seeds.

Spread evenly over the surface.

Bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes or until the topping is golden brown.

Onion Bhajis with Tomato and Chilli Sauce

Serves 4

Onion bhajis are very popular in Britain but shop-bought ones can be greasy and tired. These ones are anything but. They are served with a feisty sauce that transforms what is usually thought of as a snack into a satisfying meal.

For the tomato and chilli sauce:

25g (1oz) green chillies, deseeded and chopped

1 red pepper, deseeded and cut in 5mm dice

½ x 400g can of chopped tomatoes

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tsp caster sugar

1 tsp soft brown sugar

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

2 tbsp water

Salt and freshly ground pepper

110g (4oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp chilli powder

2 organic eggs, beaten

150ml (5fl oz / ¼ pint) water

4 onions, thinly sliced in rings

2 tbsp snipped fresh chives

Sunflower oil

First make the sauce.

Put the chillies, pepper, tomatoes and garlic into a stainless steel saucepan with the sugars, vinegar and water.

Season and simmer for 10 minutes until reduced by half.

Sieve the flour, baking powder and chilli powder into a bowl.

Make a well in the centre, add the eggs, gradually add in the water, mix to make a smooth batter.

Stir in the thinly sliced onions and chives. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Just before serving heat the oil to 170C /gas mark 3½ approximately.

Fry teaspoons of the batter in the sunflower oil for about five minutes on each side until crisp and golden, drain on kitchen paper.

Serve hot or cold with the tomato and chilli sauce.

Lentil, Chickpea, Cheddar and Onion Burgers

Serves 4

Guilt-free fast food! Perfect in a toasted bun, these deliciously spicy burgers will become firm family favourites and are guaranteed to convert even the most committed of carnivores.

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 ground cumin

¼ tsp cayenne

400g can lentils, drained and rinsed

400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 tbsp tahini paste

2 tbsp freshly chopped parsley

1 large organic egg, beaten

100g (3½ oz) fresh breadcrumbs

100g (3½ oz) grated Gruyère

100g (3½ oz) feta, crumbled

Plain flour, for dusting

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

Burger buns

Shredded lettuce

Sliced tomatoes

Sliced red onions

Sliced avocados

Soured cream

Tomato ketchup

Mayonnaise

Pickles and relishes

Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan, add the chopped onion and cook over a medium heat until tender but not coloured.

Add the garlic, ground cumin and cayenne and cook for another 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.

Tip the lentils and chickpeas into the bowl of a food-processor and blend until coarsely chopped.

Add the onion mixture, tahini paste and parsley, and blend again until combined and nearly smooth.

Tip into a large bowl and add the beaten egg, breadcrumbs and both of the cheeses.

Mix together using your hands and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Shape the mixture into patties and lightly dust in plain flour.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a large frying pan, slide the burgers into the pan and cook until golden on both sides.

Serve in toasted buns with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and avocados and a dollop of soured cream, ketchup or mayonnaise and pickles of your choice.

Potatoes with Hazelnuts and Rosemary

Serves 4

Take about 20g (¾oz) tiny rosemary needles from the bunch and set aside.

Boil 450g pink fir potatoes with 25g (1oz) sprig of rosemary leaves.

Meanwhile, simmer 25g (1oz) hazelnuts in water for four minutes, drain, peel and pat dry.

Gently fry the hazelnuts in a little hazelnut oil until golden brown, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, cool down and crush into smaller pieces.

When the potatoes are cooked, peel, slice and fry in a generous amount of hazelnut oil until they are golden brown.

Remove and drain onto kitchen paper, wipe clean the pan and place into it another two tablespoons of hazelnut oil with 100ml (3½fl oz) crème fraîche.

Reduce until the sauce is the right consistency, add the rosemary needles and return the golden potato slices.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, place into a bowl and scatter over the fried hazelnut pieces.

Hot Tips

Ed Hick’s Bacon Jam — it’s a relish — savoury, tangy, delicious, great on toast with a fried egg on top or a burger relish or just simply spread on crusty bread with a slice of apple. www.hicks.ie

Simplee Salt was created by Edel at her home and garden in East Cork — she grew more herbs in her garden that she knew what to do with so she started creating flavoured sea salts which are now stocked in shops all over Ireland. www.simplee.ie

Planting an Orchard — Ballymaloe’s former head gardener Susan Turner will teach a half-day workshop for anyone interested in creating a fruit orchard. Susan will talk through pruning of both newly-planted trees and the cropping tree and also how to rejuvenate an old orchard. Susan is a gardener with an international reputation and clientele and is an inspirational teacher. The course starts at 9am on Monday, November 21, and finishes at 2pm. It includes a delicious light lunch using ingredients from the farm. The cost is €95.00. Call 021-4646785 or www.cookingisfun.ie

Cork Free Choice Consumer Group presents ‘Wines for Christmas’ — choosing wines to suit Christmas fare, the best wines to buy this year and serving and storing wine with Colm McCan award-winning sommelier from Ballymaloe House and Peter Corr experienced importer and distributor in the Cork area. Crawford Art Gallery Café, Cork — Thursday, November 24, at 7.30pm — entrance €6 including tea & coffee.

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