Weekend food with Darina Allen
Georgina’s highly respected guide has been in operation since 1997, and she continues to think outside the box. Innovation is the name of the game at the moment, so this year she added four new awards and four new criteria awards to highlight establishments who are excelling in unexpected areas.
The Pet Friendly Hotel of the Year took my fancy. Derek Davis, who presented the awards at Bord Bia in Dublin, quipped that “many people would rather leave their husband behind than the dog!” and so were missing an opportunity… not so the Dunloe Castle Hotel in Killarney who, for a nominal charge per night, has created a pet-friendly environment with luxurious kennels or a dog friendly guest room with pet beds and pet treats.
The Green Hospitality Award went to Cooperhill House Riverstown, Co Sligo, where the 500 acre estate of woodland and pasture supplies much of their food.
Café of the Year Award went to Builín Blasta Café in Spiddal, Co Galway, while Sunday Lunch of the Year was won by VW Restaurant Viewmount House, Co Longford.
The Casual Dining Award went to the Salty Dog Hotel and Bistro in Co Down as did the Hotel Breakfast of the Year. The Outstanding Service Award went to Chapter One Restaurant in Dublin.
The Ethnic Restaurant of the Year Award went to Cava — Spanish Restaurant and Tapas Bar in Galway.
Peter and Mary Ward of Country Choice in Nenagh, Co Tipperary, scooped the first Natural Food Award.
Cork picked up several awards. The Just Ask Restaurant of the Year went to the Farmgate Restaurant in the English Market, Pub of the Year went to Mary Ann’s Bar and Restaurant, Castletownsend, and Ballymaloe House were very proud to win three awards — Good Cooking Award, Good Housekeeping Award and Best Breakfast Award 2012.
For a full list of award winners visit www.georginacampbell.com or, better still, buy the Georgina Campbell Guide 2012 and keep it in your car.
Serves 6
500g (18oz) plain dry mashed potatoes
500g (18oz) organic salmon pieces (skin off & bone out)
100mls (3½fl oz) white wine
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp tomato ketchup
1 tbsp anchovy, chopped
Salt and pepper
Pre-heat the oven to 180C/350F/ Mark 4. Firstly poach the salmon in a small oven proof dish with the wine plus just enough water to cover. Bake with a lid on for approximately 15 minutes. Drain and flake into the mashed potatoes. Add the mustard, tomato ketchup and chopped anchovy, season with salt and freshly ground pepper and combine with a fork, taste and correct seasoning. Cool and store in the fridge for hour.
Divide into six and shape the fishcakes. Heat a teaspoon of olive oil in a pan over a medium heat, fry the fishcakes for about two minutes and then transfer to the oven for 10-15 minutes. (Alternatively finish on the pan)
Some like to serve these with steamed green vegetables like kale or spinach and a sweet chilli sauce.
This is one of Peter’s signature recipes at Country Choice. It was put together in response to his son’s request for nice bread when he was starting college. He hated measurements. Almost every student has a pint glass, right? Any good wholemeal would do.
Pint glass coarse flour
Pint glass white flour
¾ of a pint buttermilk
Enough salt to coat the bottom of a pint glass
Enough soda to coat the bottom of a pint glass
1 tbsp butter
Mix dry. Add wet, shape and bake
We make a flat cake about 1½ inches high with a cross on it and bake it on the floor of the hot oven of the Aga.
Alternatively, bake in an preheated oven — 230C/450F/Mark 8 — for 15 minutes then at 200C/400F/Mark 6 for a further 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Serves 6-8
The Just Ask Restaurant of the Year Award went to the Farmgate Restaurant in the English Market in Cork.
1 leg of mutton — around 2½ kg (5lbs 18oz)
300 ml (10floz /½pint) of chicken stock (use low- salt bouillon if necessary)
Enough water to cover mutton in the pot
Bay leaves, onions, carrots and leeks (2 of each should do) (vegetables are used for flavouring the stock — discard after cooking)
Put all of the ingredients for the mutton into a large enough pot and bring to the boil, turn down the heat and simmer gently for 1½ — 1¾ hours.
While the mutton is cooking you can get on with making the caper sauce — which can be kept warm until serving.
50g (2oz) butter
50g (2oz) plain flour
Parsley and capers to taste (Kay Harte uses lots)
Optional: a teaspoon of English mustard or a little anchovy is lovely.
Melt the butter (over a medium heat), then add the flour (classic Roux base). Stirring continuously, add 300ml (10floz / ½ pint) of heated milk and 300ml (10floz / ½ pint) of stock from the mutton pot. When bubbling, add in good quality roughly chopped capers and chopped parsley. Add in a drop of cream (mustard or anchovy if using), and season to taste. Remove from heat and keep warm until serving.
Slice the mutton — and serve with caper sauce and steamed golden wonder potatoes in their jackets. Some fresh parsley looks lovely to finish.
Makes 12
The beetroot can be added raw, all you need to do is peel and grate it but J-Me Peaker finds the outcome nicer if the fresh beetroot is cooked and grated. “The texture is soft and the flavour is fantastic.”
185g (6½oz) dark chocolate 70% cocoa solids
185g (6½oz) butter
3 free-range eggs
440g (15½oz) sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
155g (5¼oz) white flour
300g (10½oz) raw beetroot finely grated
8-inch round oven dish lined with greaseproof paper
Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/Mark 3. Melt the chocolate and& butter in a bowl over a pot of lightly simmering water. In a separate bowl whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla extract — not too much, just give them a little beat to combine. Pour this into the melted chocolate and fold. Add the flour and then the beetroot.
Pour in the brownie batter into the prepared tin. Bake for 45 minutes, cool, then cut into 10-12 pieces. Serve with lightly whipped cream. Enjoy!
- Midleton Farmer’s Market — Don’t miss the great new Ms Hederman’s stall piled high with irresistible sweet puddings, pastries and petit fours. Try her chocolate and chestnut rum pots or the lemon creams, yummy. Every Saturday from 9.30am to 2pm. Facebook: The Ms Hederman’s — 0868213984
- Time to order your turkey or goose for Christmas — I’ll be looking for a bronze turkey this year. The Good Food Ireland website has a list of suppliers. You can also order Christmas geese and turkeys from Nora Aherne 021-4632354.
- Darina Allen’s Cookbook of the Week — Tapas by Elisabeth Luard — A brilliant little book on Tapas by one of my favourite cookery writers of all time Elisabeth Luard. Elisabeth has been living in Spain for 15 years and her seemingly effortless style of writing and understanding of the way in which ordinary people’s cooking reflects their history, culture and everyday life, makes her one of the most individual and distinctive food writers ever. Tapas are the wonderfully tempting little dishes of food that are traditionally served with sherry in southern Spain. Beautifully simple, tantalisingly delicious and easy to prepare, they are perfect for all kinds of occasions. Perfect to nibble with drinks or a little selection makes an irresistible starter. Tapas are about brilliant ingredients; Elisabeth gives suggestions for tapas for different seasons and occasions. Published by Grub Street Press.
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