French fare
These days, as Arthur Lubow famously put it in the New York Times agazine, “they go there to learn what not to do”. The country that once defined haute cuisine has plummeted to earth like a shot pheasant.
Blame complacency. Blame the rise to power of Ferran Adrià and Spain’s nueva cocina. Blame the all-powerful Michelin guide, the all-consuming hypermarchés, or the flight of French chefs overseas. But London, Tokyo and New York have made off with Paris’s culinary mojo.
