Compare and contrast some fine value wines

THERE’s a very good sale on right now at Marks & Spencer, with cuts on selected bottles up to 25% until the end of the month.

Most of the wines are cut by €3, but you will also find bottles cut by up to €7 off the normal price — but the majority of the latter are in the higher price brackets (like €20 and beyond) so, pro-rata, a lot of the seemingly modest cuts are better bargains.

Thinking in terms of price cuts in this way may seem like a contradiction to the usual wisdom — that you should ignore the allure of how much (or what percentage) has been taken off a price, and be guided only by what you’re paying.

While that generally remains the best advice, Marks is a bit of an exception in my view. It’s the best supermarket to buy wine full stop. That plus the fact that it seems to only run ‘real’ sales means you should always pay attention when they’ve one on.

What do I mean by real sale? Well, for one thing, M&S doesn’t do ‘special purchase’ bottles that you may see milling about like rent-a-crowd in some supermarkets — anonymous wines shipped in and flogged with little regard to winning your interest in making a repeat purchase. Nor does M&S seem to practice the common supermarket tactic of displaying wines at deliberately inflated retail prices — solely so they can later declare it to be reduced.

Don’t forget too that in common with many retailers, Marks offers a further 10% discount when you buy six bottles or more.

Today’s highlights include two very interesting pairs — two highly contrasting pinot noirs, and two Italian wines where the difference is a bit more subtle. In broad brushstrokes, I’d characterise one of the pinots as meaty and savoury, while the other emphasises bright berry flavours. Both are at least commendable, and interesting to try side-by-side because of the contrast.

For precisely the opposite reason (that is, their similarities) the two Italian montepulcianos are well worth a taste-off. If you’ve a few people round for dinner, it could be interesting to buy the pair of them and see which your guests favour, and how much they would pay for either bottle.

* THE first of this year’s wine dinners at Donnybrook Fair takes place on Thursday from 7.45pm when Simon Tyrrell & will present a selection of wines from the Rhône valley, accompanied by mouthwatering dishes created by chef Ben Anderson. Tickets (€60 per person or €100 per couple) are available on 01 6144849 or via [e-mail].

* On Friday, February 18, Ely Wine Bar & Brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1, is opening its cellar doors to showcase more than 90 top-class wines. ! They have also designed a special menu to match.

Tickets for the tasting are €15 per head, and there is a special three-course set menu later at €35 a head. For more information, contact [e-mail] or phone Michelle Lawlor at 01 676 8986.