Withered vines and parched soil: How climate change is changing the foods farmers produce
Many farmers have endured weather losses this year that will dissuade them from committing to certain crops and livestock in the future, as the effects of climate change intensify.
After heat waves and droughts devastated farming across the EU, there are fears of farmers reducing production in the years ahead.
In particular, many may shy away from crops that need irrigation, after several countries had to restrict water use for irrigation.
Many farmers have endured weather losses this year that will dissuade them from committing to certain crops and livestock in the future, as the effects of climate change intensify.
For the first time in its 2,000-year history, production has been halted of the Salers cheese made from cows' milk in the Auvergne, in central France.
France's worst ever drought on record burned off the pastures to feed the cows (the cheese requires cows to be fed grass as 75% of more of their diet).
It is hoped that rain will arrive in September for pasture recovery on the 78 farms providing the milk for 1,200 tonnes of cheese per year.
In southwestern France, the Bordeaux region’s famous Merlot and Sauvignon blanc grapes are expected to be victims of climate change, winemakers there are testing more resilient grape varieties from southern and eastern Europe.
Winegrowers across the EU expect a disappointing harvest after grapes withered on the vine in many areas.
Ukraine has not been spared, with the government there estimating a harvest of at least 50 million tonnes of grain this year, compared with a record 86 million tonnes in 2021, because of the loss of land to Russian forces as well as lower grain yields due to drought and heat.
Swiss army helicopters have been needed to airlift water to thirsty livestock in the Alps.
There is a yield reduction in Spanish stone fruits like apricots of up to 40%, but this is attributed more to spring frost than summer weather. And cherry, peach and nectarine crops generally did well this year in the EU.
Grain growers in France expect production losses as high as 14%. In Romania, grain yields are back as much as 35%.
Also in France, one-third of the usual production of Lautrec Pink Garlic, a gourmet food produced in the Tarn region, is lost.
The EU harvest of olives has not yet started yet, but below-average production is predicted.
In the UK, June and July brassica yields were down 35%, and farmers have delayed planting crops for the winter in parched fields. Potato, carrot, apple and hop yields are reduced. But record-high temperatures up to 39°C, and the lack of rainfall, had only limited impact on winter grain crops.
Belgian farmers said crops such as potatoes and beans were burned by the sun.
The Italian rice harvest could be reduced by 30%.
Last week, EU officials monitoring crop prospects predicted yields will be 12% below the five-year average for sunflowers and 16% below for grain maize. Soybean yields will also fall back.
The only benefit of hot and dry conditions is easier harvesting.
Spain, France, central and northern Italy, central Germany, Hungary, Romania, Slovenia and Croatia are among the most severely affected regions in Europe.
In north-western Italy, southern and central Spain, very low water levels in reservoirs were insufficient to meet the water needs of crops.
Many grain maize fields will be (or have been) harvested instead as green fodder maize.
In the Benelux countries, lack of rain halted pasture growth. Resowing might be needed in some areas with sandy soils. However, pastures in Ireland, Denmark, and Sweden remained in fair condition. Now, heading into September without adequate rainfall, Irish farmers are finding it harder to keep grass in front of herds.
Across the EU, soft wheat production is expected to decrease by 5% compared to last season, and barley by 1%. Sugar beet yields will also be “well below” usual levels.
The EU's European Drought Observatory recently announced a "warning" drought hazard for 47% of EU land, and a more severe “alert” hazard for 17%.
Meanwhile, beef and milk production has been hindered by lack of pasture, coming on top of high fertiliser and feed prices. Herdowners have been eating into winter feed reserves, some have had to sell off their cattle.
With drought and water scarcity projected to increase across the EU, and particularly in southern Europe, smaller-scale farmers are more at risk, with large growers and producers in the best farming areas getting better access to scarce irrigation capacity.
In the UK, farmers have accused the Government of blocking the supply of water needed for crops.
Official drought status was recently expanded to include the West Midlands, Devon and Cornwall, East Anglia, Herts and North London, Kent and South London, Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire and East Midlands, Solent and South Downs, Thames, and Yorkshire regions, along with much of South Wales.
After the Environment Agency denied applications from farmers to abstract water, Tom Bradshaw, deputy president of the National Farmers Union, said, "Water must be prioritised for food production alongside environmental protection and farming can’t be the poor relation."
The Environment Agency has said it will support farmers and growers, but Mr Bradshaw warned that unless there is significant rainfall over the autumn and winter, UK farmers may simply choose not to plant crops next spring.
“Farmers will choose not to grow crops that require irrigation. If they haven’t got that water available, and contracts to give them a profitable return, in all likelihood, they are not going to take the gamble,” he said.
The experiences of this year, and warnings of worse to come, may pose a similar dilemma for farmers across Europe. Hugely increased farming costs, and the possibility of even worse fertiliser shortages, may make a decision not to gamble on certain crops or livestock plans easier for them.
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