Tranquil break on the old estate of Ballynahinch Castle in Connemara

AT TIMES it is forgotten that business is about people and in Ballynahinch this is very much the case. 

The O’Flaherty family do not own the property but it does feel as if they have made it their own. Their children were all born since they moved to the estate and they have created an enviable family life on the grounds of this 300-year-old castle. In all decent businesses people want you to leave happy, they work hard to make the business a success, a pleasant place to be, somewhere they are proud to work and that you are proud to say you have been. In Ballynahinch Castle this is beautifully so.

It is difficult to talk about my trip there without talking about the warm welcome from Patrick O’Flaherty, about the fly fishing tutorial from Cyril Biggins, about Patrick’s children gleefully showing us where they found the first chanterelles of the season and about chatting to Cliona, Patrick’s wife, about her children’s cooking project. These things make a good business great and make a nice trip to West Connemara a memorable one that you want to repeat again and again.

Once you leave Galway town and embark on the road to Oughterard, the landscape opens up as only it can on the edge of the Atlantic. The light filters white through the sky and the browns and grays of the earth reflect on the lakes that spread out for miles in front of you. The grandeur of our coastal regions cannot fail to impress even the most weary of travellers. The last half an hour drive to Ballynahinch is one of the most scenic in the country and it absorbs you so that you feel the noise of the city and the hum of work fade away with each twist and turn in the road. The side road leading to the castle can be missed so keep your eyes peeled.

The driveway into the castle instantly brought me in mind of childhood trips to Killarney, with pink swathes of rhododendron lining the narrow road. The crenellated Victorian mansion was once owned by Maharajah Ranjitsinji, also known as the ‘Ranji’, Prince of Cricketeers, and it still has a slight feel of the Raj on entry.

The welcoming smell of a turf fire greeted us on entering reception. The old grandeur of a building of its era remains intact, all of the decor would not be to my taste — it feels like it may be aimed at an older audience — but what is untouched from an older era is lovely. The Fisherman’s Bar with its wooden panelling would be my grandfather’s dream, were he still alive. This is very unashamedly a hunting person’s domain. Taxidermy of the spoils of the estate line the walls and glass cases with fishing flies are dotted around. I habitually pestered my poor grandfather to take me on his early morning fishing trips. Then after a very, very short time I would pester him again to be entertained, waiting for fish to bite was not all that exciting at six years of age. The box of pretty feathered flies absorbed my interest. I remember handling them as if they were made of glass, so as not to hook my clumsy, stubby little fingers, lying them out in the order of the brightest first on the grass verge.

With these memories in my head taking a lesson in fly fishing was an absolute treat; all these years later and instantly I could see what captivated my grandfather. Standing alone on the banks of the lake in the early morning repeating a methodical movement is a lovely, slow way to spend the day. The trout hopped out of the water and teased me but none were interested in my little hooked fly. But as my instructor said “it is called fishing not catching”. There are 72 casting piers on the property, seven salmon and four sea trout beats, so a more experienced fisher has plenty of chances to make a catch.

We were very generously fed throughout our trip. The staff working in the hotel all seemed very relaxed and willing to help out at a moment’s notice. On arrival we had lunch and a nice glass of Riesling in the bar. The salad of samphire and lobster was simply dressed and very tasty.

Dinner at night is served in The Owenmore dining room and costs €65 per person. This is not a cheap dinner by any means, for most it is a dinner for a special occasion. The dining room overlooks the river which gives the castle its name. It has some of the most beautiful vistas of any restaurant in country, so perfect you think you are looking at a John Hinde image of old Ireland. It is a dining room with a grandeur and old world charm that lives up to a sense of occasion. The staff told me they do not reserve the window seats, they are given on a first come first served basis, which is a very egalitarian and refreshing way to organise the restaurant, especially in a hotel with many return guests. The tables back from the window also share the view so there is not a huge hardship being seated here.

I went for a trio of seafood to start which was scallop, cured mackerel, poached langoustine all served in a light tomato consume. The consume was extremely well made and did not interfere with the delicate flavours of the seafood as tomato often can. It was elegantly balanced dish that let the quality of the ingredients shine.

To follow I chose Thornhill Irish Duck Breast served with spring cabbage, bacon from the grounds of the castle all dressed with a rhubarb jus. It was perfectly cooked and very much in keeping with the surroundings. My friend’s turbot looked impressive, it was a huge portion and served with a Dillisk seaweed butter. I have become a huge seaweed fan, particularly after getting Extreme Greens Sally McKenna’s book on foraging and cooking with Irish seaweed. Hopefully more people will start eating this food which is plentiful and free on our Atlantic shoreline.

There were a few things I would like to change, serving sliced pan toast with breakfast is a definite no for me. Some simple soda bread would have been nicer. The absence of Irish craft beers in the bar was also a disappointment but I also know when a family run a business there are always a million things to do. Hopefully these are things they have not had a chance to do yet. There are plans to grow more food onsite and beehives are to be located deep in the grounds.

Patrick and his family have helped create a wonderful place in Ballynahinch and the friendly atmosphere with turf fires and plenty of charm engages you while indoors. Of course there are also plenty of reasons to escape into the stunning scenery.

A ne night getaway which includes overnight stay, dinner and breakfast from €160 per person sharing.

www.ballynahinch-castle.com