Kilfinnane walk steeped in history
KILFINNANE, reputedly the highest town in Limerick, is enclosed by mountains, except northward where it opens to the rich landscape of the Golden Vale.
Our route, south of the town between low hills to the east and the impressive Ballyhoura Mountains to the south west, joins the Ballyhoura Way and, later, the Cycle Route.
Kilfinnane’s name derives from ‘cill’ (a church) and ‘Fhíonáin’ (of Finian), a hermit monk who lived beside the River Lubagh at the time of St. Patrick’s conversion of Ireland. He converted the locals who later founded a church in his honour.
We start at the town ‘mall’. Facing the Post Office, opposite, we go left past a statute of Christ and a map board, beneath which stands a stone memorial to Staker Wallace (also spelt Wallis), a member of the United Irishmen in 1798. Captured, he was publicly flogged and a sentence passed in Limerick on Jul 4, 1798, notes that Patrick Wallis was sentenced for... “collecting subscriptions for procuring the assassination of Chas. S. Oliver, Esq., to be hanged at Kilfinnane, his head to be affixed on one of his own pikes, and placed on the castle.” Despite torture, he refused to name his fellow revolutionaries.
We take the first left, signposted Ballyorgan. The left turning 50m along and the right turn immediately afterwards leads to a path giving access to the famous Kilfinnane Moat (also accessed by a lane off the High Street). Kilfinnane may once have a seat of the kings of Munster, and the moat a ceremonial mound for the crowning of kings. Over 10m high it is, in effect, a hill fort affording broad views of the surrounding countryside and is said to have been strengthened by Brian Boru.
We continue south, passing waymarks. As the road splits (sign Kilfinnane 6) we go right and soon get the first glimpses of dramatic Castle Hill, with its stark, ruined, twin-tower castle on the skyline and the Ballyhoura Mountains beyond. The lands hereabouts were settled circa 1658 by one of Cromwell’s soldiers, one Robert Oliver. The castle was the birthplace of Eliza Oliver, mother of the notorious courtesan Lola Montez, the lover of King Ludwig I of Bavaria.
As we continue, we get many views of the ruin. After passing an entrance to a forestry track, we reach a Y-junction and the ruined postern gates to Castle Oliver, with a mock-Gothic tower. We keep right and, then, at the gable of a dormer bungalow, follow the road sharp right. Now we get views through the trees of Castle Oliver, with the aforementioned stark, twin-towered ruin on the hill behind and we arrive at the grandiose castle gates, sporting stone griffons with heraldic shields rampant on the posts. A plaque announces that the castle is a private residence but can be rented “exclusively”. It has 110 rooms, a ballroom, the largest private wine cellars in Ireland and an extensive terrace overlooking its former 20,000-acre (81 km2) estate.
Two Oliver descendants, sisters with notable talents in stained glass making and wood turning, built the mock Victorian, red-sandstone pile in 1845. After the last Oliver scion moved out in 1978, it fell into decay until new, wealthy owners restored it.
As we walk toward Kilfinnane, the remains of what might have been an estate walled garden, a farmhouse with old, well-built stone barns, and (at another Y where we keep right) a second mock-Gothic gate with a circular motif over the arch depicting wild boars and a hard-to-read hand-painted legend in Irish.
Nothing notable now intervenes in the pleasant walk until we reach a sign for Murthule Ringfort. We see on the hill after we turn right for Kilfinnane and our starting point.
CLONAKILTY WALKING GROUP, CO CORK Jan 20: Mangerton, Grade B (moderate) meet: O Donovan’s Hotel, 9.30am. All walks are weather permitting and for fully-paid up members. See www.clonakiltywalking.com.
SLIGO WALKING CLUBJan 19: Keelogyboy/Crockauns, Grade: “Challenging“, steep mountain slopes and some trail, 9 miles approx., 4 hours. Meet Sligo Institute of Technology car park, 10am. Details: membership/fees etc, Stephen Clarke/Jim Newman 087-6452857
KENMARE WALKING
Jan 20: Earneen Circuit, OS 85, Grade A, Meet The Square, Kenmare 9am.
Non-members are asked to contact walk leaders beforehand. Pat O’ Sullivan 085-1740684
BRAY STROLLERS Jan 20: Grade A Sunday Walk. Suitable beginners. 3 ½ to 4 hours. Meet Bray Dart Station at 10.30 am where car pooling is arranged.
Jan 19: Saturday Grade B Walk. B group walks about 15 km and about 6hrs. Meet car park rear of church, Kilmacanogue 9.30 am
Start point: Kilfinnane is about an hour from Cork City, reached via the M8 to Mitchelstown and then turning left onto the R512. From Limerick, it is about 40 km southeast and can be reached via the N20 to Charleville, then to R515 to Kilmallock and then the R512 going south to Kilfinnane. .
Description: A loop walk from Kilfinnane,11km., quiet roads (best option in soggy weather!) except for path to moat.
Difficulty:
Map: OS MAP 73
*For maps and information on Ordnance Survey products visit:
www.osi.ie
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