Wine: Support the Greek wine industry
One small thing we can do to help, is to support the Greek wine industry which has gone from strength to strength in recent years.
I have recently been reading a series of essays on Wine and Philosophy (Ed. Fritz Allhoff) and it reminded me just how important wine was to the development of Western Civilisation.
At the time of Plato and Aristotle in the Fourth and Fifth Century BC wine was central to life in Greece and particularly important in the Symposia which were effectively wine parties where the great philosophical ideas were developed.
I don’t have proof for this but the Irish expression “a drop of the craither” may well come from the Greek word “krater” — the bowl in which the ancient Greeks would dilute their wine (drinking undiluted wine was considered louche indeed).
Greek wines are difficult to find in the Irish market and I suspect they are not easy to sell given that they frequently use native varieties which are particularly suited to their climate.
But I promise once you try crisp fresh Assyrtiko from Santorini (and elsewhere), complex spicy Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko (St George) you won’t look back.
One might expect that Greek wines would be baked given the heat in the country but remember that Greece is almost all mountains and the plains are used for more lucrative food crops. It is on the mountain slopes, in the foothills and on infertile soils that their best grapes thrive.
Greek wineries don’t make it over to Ireland much but the Celtic Whiskey Shop brought two Macedonian producers just before Christmas — Dom Costa Lazaridi and Ktima Biblia Chora.
Both are growing organically and successfully blending international and local varieties to give their wines international appeal. Celtic Whiskey shop are happy to courier their wines (and spirits) nationwide via their website www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
Stockist: Marks and Spencer
Like many native Greek grapes this manages to retain its perfume and acidity despite the warm climate (although the vineyards which are 60km from Delphi are at some altitude and do receive cooling breezes). Floral and citrus aromas with fine crisp acidity — try with seafood.
Stockist: Marks & Spencer (larger shops – eg, Liffey Valley)
Xinomavro is the dominant grape in Northern Greece (and the second most planted in the country after Agiorgitiko) and is not unlike Nebbiolo in character. Red currants and cherries on the nose with good bright fruit and acidity. Try with a spicy lamb curry.
Stockist: SuperValu
Part of SuperValu’s French wine sale and a wine I had no room for last week. Made from old vines (always look for old vines with Carignan) with lots of bright juicy fruit flavours and a lingering spicy touch. Great value red to cheer up a chilly evening.
Stockist: Celtic Whiskey Shop/Wines On the Green
A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Assyrtiko and made at around 400 metres above sea level on the slopes of Mount Pangeon. Distinctly mineral and fresh citrus nose, ripe lemon and stony centre and a crisp lime citrus finish.
Stockist: Celtic Whiskey Shop/Wines On the Green
A blend of 50-50 Semillon and Assyrtiko, barrel-fermented in new and second use French oak, this is packed with creamy lemon and vanilla aromas from the semillon and the oak and fresh citrus acidity from the Assyrtiko. Think of this as Greece’s answer to fine white Bordeaux.
Stockist: O’Briens
Nemea in the Pelepponese is the source of Greek’s best reds and Gaia is an old favourite of mine, I first tasted in the late 1990s via Oddbins. Made from 100% Agiorgitiko (as are all Nemea reds), dark black, with spicy raisins and plum fruit flavours. Gaia also produce a wild ferment Assyrtiko.
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