Louise Kennedy: Ready to wear, now and forever

LOUISE Kennedy’s clothes are never off the fashion pages, but it’s difficult to believe she’s been designing for 30 years.

Appearing in the entrance of her Belgravia boutique, flaxen-haired and sylphic in a neatly-tailored black suit, she looks as fresh as a woman whose career is beginning.

Yet here we are, a fortnight after her 30th anniversary show, where she greeted every guest at the door of Dublin’s Hugh Lane Gallery. Then, she flew to Paris to select fabrics for her next collection. Last night, she partied with perfumer, Roja Dove, who supplies her Dublin flagship, exclusively in Ireland. Now, she’s briefing a fitter on the refurbishment of this store, masterminded by Mallow-born interiors expert, Michael Mortell.

“If I didn’t look at the numbers, I wouldn’t know it had been 30 years. I don’t feel any different from when I started and I put that down to the passion and energy I have for my work. I’ve just begun planning autumn/winter 2014, and still get that same excitement when I see, and feel, the new fabrics.

“Colours and textures are always my starting points. Some designers might say ‘here are my line-drawings and this is the silhouette’, but I like deciding on a palette and working with various mills first. If I find a great print, that can greatly influence the collection — but there’s always a calculation in the colours and fabrics I choose. I always factor in how a garment can be a lifestyle piece and how it will look in the store. The biggest change for me, personally, has been the support of my team.”

Kennedy employs 30 people to cover every aspect of the business, from design to retail.

“They share my passion and have such energy. The morning after the anniversary show, I expected a few people to call in sick — we’d all been out late — but everyone was in, talking about new orders and supply dates. We have great respect for one another.”

Some collaborators have been with the brand for decades, but she also enjoys working with graduates, whom she credits with helping her stay on top of fashion’s digital revolution. “Technology has really changed the way we bring clothes to the marketplace. I hope to have my online store set up by Christmas. Digital marketing and the live-streaming of shows, with orders placed as soon as models hit the catwalk have been revolutionary for my business. And yet, the old ways still thrive. Interacting with buyers and building personal customer relationships remains important to me.”

Louise is known as a designer who truly listens to women and they respond with loyalty, even in a recession. The Louise Kennedy look is well-established as uncluttered, luxurious and expertly fitted. She meets daughters and even granddaughters of early clients wearing inherited pieces.

“These are not throwaway clothes. They’re expensive and clients want to know their investment will come back to them.” Many ask for her garments by name (each Louise Kennedy piece has one, taken from the culture, era or fashion icon that inspired it).

Lest she ever forget it, we treasure her. No other designer’s work is so much a part of Irish life. She famously dressed Mary Robinson for her inauguration. She designed uniforms for Aer Lingus, stamps for An Post and the judicial robes for the Supreme Court. She has an ongoing relationship with Tipperary Crystal, the success of which greatly contributes to her international profile. She works with Irish crafts people, textile manufacturers, artists, stylists and retailers. Her Merrion Square flagship, with its innovative, lifestyle-concept design, is a world-class retail destination and a tourist attraction in itself. She inspires countless young designers and is her Dublin public relations company’s favourite client.

Caroline Kennedy PR may be a little biased. Louise and her vivacious sister are extremely close, having bonded as teens at boarding school. Living away from home gave them an independence that serves them well as entrepreneurs. Caroline is Louise’s “greatest confidante” and “an amazing strategist”.

The seemingly inexhaustible work ethic comes from their parents. The Kennedys invested in her grandaunt’s Thurles drapers, inspiring a lifelong love of great fabrics in their daughter. Louise’s late mother suffered from rheumatoid arthritis for much of her young life but she recalls a strong, smiling lady driving the family business from bed.

“She was so passionate about clothing and never let her illness interfere with a day’s work. I never remember her complaining, though she must have been in tremendous pain. She was such a mentor for me.”

Louise’s father gave her an appreciation for the business side of her role, teaching her the importance of poring over figures. “Even though I started [my business] alone, I had a CFO!” She enjoys accountant meetings and perusing retail projections because she relishes seeing her company grow.

She dreams of opening a US store but wants to do it with a domestic partner. Two exciting new brand extensions — a signature fragrance out next month and “The Kennedy”, her first handbag — will make Louise Kennedy even more appealing to equity buyers. “Looking strategically at the business, I know I will sell equity at some point. I know how far I can take it myself and at what point I’ll need to relinquish full control. The next five years are crucial.”

“The Kennedy”, €1,495, is a French calf-leather tote available in jet black and Kerry blue. It was developed in collaboration with British luxury brand Tanner Krolle. The label — which has an Irish managing director, John O’Sullivan — is not well-known for women’s bags, despite using Hermès-standard leather and the finest production methods. Princess Diana always travelled with Tanner Krolle luggage and commissioned school trunks for her boys.

“It was so interesting working with John’s team, seeing how bag and garment designs differ and learning about raw-edge construction. The experience reminded me of when I first worked with Tipperary Crystal. I didn’t hesitate because I knew I’d have an expert team behind me. In that situation, you’re bringing your ideas and your aesthetic to people who can translate them.”

Like an LK garment, the bag is no mere trend piece. “I knew I wanted a big, functional bag because I always need one. There will be new colours for spring and I can see the style re-imagined as a practical clutch in the future.”

Bags and perfumes are the kind of entry-level products that really drive a luxury brand. Few of us buy a ready-to-wear collection per season but a bag to cherish for years? That’s a worthy investment.

“I’ve always thought that way. I was never one for buying a new ‘it’ bag each season. I was lucky enough to inherit a crocodile-skin Kelly bag that I still use and send to Paris when it needs a little TLC. Someday I hope to pass it on.”

No doubt plenty of women will keep “The Kennedy” safe for future generations.