Colcannon

Method

1. Scrub the potatoes, put them in a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil.

2. When the potatoes are about half-cooked — 15 minutes approx for ‘old’ potatoes — strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put onto a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked.

3. Remove the dark outer leaves from the cabbage. Wash the rest and cut into quarters, remove the core and cut finely across the grain.

4. Cook in a little boiling salted water or bacon-cooking water until soft.

5. Drain and season with salt, freshly ground pepper and a little butter.

6. If using kale, remove the central rib. Cook the kale in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender.

7. This may take 8-10 minutes, depending on the type and maturity of the kale.

8. Curly kale is sweetest after it has been mellowed by a few night frosts.

9. When the potatoes are just cooked, put the milk and the finely chopped scallions into a saucepan and bring to the boil.

10. Pull the peel off the potatoes and discard, mash quickly while they are still warm and beat in enough boiling milk to make a fluffy purée. (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes in the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade.)

11. Then stir in the cooked cabbage and taste for seasoning. For perfection, serve immediately in a hot dish with a lump of butter melting in the centre. Colcannon may be prepared ahead up to this point and reheated later in a moderate oven 180°C, for 20-25 minutes.

12. Cover while reheating so it doesn’t get too crusty on top.