Hotel review: Perfect country escapism in Wexford spot that houses Kevin Dundon’s cookery studio

Dunbrody House, one of Ireland's best-known country house escapes, also makes for one of its finest

Dunbrody’s setting is perhaps the treasure itself; it sits on a cliff and woodland walks hem the estate and loop back into the village and the property, allowing guests to enjoy the finest country escapism within a short radius of their guest room.

Dunbrody House, Arthurstown, Co Wexford

Our rating 8.75/10

Location

Even the journey adds to the experience of a Dunbrody House visit. Set in the pint-sized village of Arthurstown, on the banks of the scenic Suir estuary, the short ferry ride from Passage East to get you there ramps up the cathartic sense of escape.

The estate is on Wexford’s unspoiled Hook Peninsula, making it a prime base from which to explore off-the-beaten-track villages, sandy beaches, and historic abbeys, as well as the iconic lighthouse. And with those verdant coastal views, add some fine weather and a chilled Sancerre and there’s almost a soupçon of Normandy to Dunbrody too.

9/10

Style and design

Dunbrody looks pretty dashing on a mild March afternoon with the 200-year-old Georgian property poetically framed by in-bloom magnolias and cherry blossoms; Kevin Dundon’s cookery studio sits just across the courtyard.

On brand for an Ireland’s Blue Book property, royal blue doors, including rather bougie automatic sliding ones, lead to a similarly toned, chandelier-capped reception room, which features the unhurried pleasure of a refined sit-down check-in. 

A smattering of Easter eggs and a seasonal simnel cake lend a wholesome aesthetic while bold rustic art and plush carpets featuring the Dunbrody’s signature heron ramp up the grandeur stakes. You could say that, as country houses go, Dunbrody teeters more on the elevated elegance side but the atmosphere can chameleon nicely here too, from the Champagne bar adorned with Moët magnums to Dunbrody’s very own charming pub, The Local.

9/10

Service

Service is wonderful at Dunbrody. There’s a warm welcome at reception and all guests receive a tour of the property to gather bearings. Service at dinner and breakfast is warm and largely confident, and I recall a number of seasoned staff from a previous visit, which adds a friendly familiarity. Worth noting: when my friend felt under the weather during our stay, the team went above and beyond to aid their recovery.

9/10

Guest rooms

Though a country house hotel, Dunbrody retains an elegant intimacy across its 22 rooms. A charming gate lodge and a cabin are available to book too. Given the nature of the property, rooms vary in size, layout and aspect, with most offering romantic views of the daffodil-carpeted grounds (a few do overlook the courtyard car park). 

My room is characterful and luxurious, with particularly polished period furnishings, heavenly beds and a fine en suite (though I did note that my bath felt a little tight).

8.5/10

In-room perks

Rooms offer tea, Nespresso and filtered water but the absence of even a pre-packaged biscuit is clocked. En-suite products are by Irish brand, Voya.

7/10

On the menu

The Harvest Room has been gorgeously refurbished since my last visit; former burgundy tones have been replaced with earthy botanicals and forest greens that complement the grounds just outside. It’s a really beautiful space. 

We enjoyed head chef Rory Higdon’s three-course evening menu (€75), a starter of cauliflower velouté with pan-seared scallops was a little lacklustre but it was followed by treacle-marinated sirloin with a wonderful plate of garden vegetables, and a dessert of roast pineapple served with candied walnuts and a delicious dollop of buckthorn ice-cream. On the whole, a very delicious dinner.

Breakfast is served in the same space come morning. There’s no buffet; instead, guests choose from “one” continental item and a hot selection menu ranging from grilled Dunbrody smoked trout to garden omelettes. It’s a traditional menu which doesn’t break any mould, but the meal is a soothingly paced pleasure and feels experiential in its own right.

8.5/10

Activities and amenities

Dunbrody’s Cookery School is one of the main draws, with a range of options on offer. One-day courses are available from €175, with stay packages available too.

The property has also embraced Instagrammable wellness trends with its own mobile woodland sauna and an outdoor bath tub overlooking the kitchen gardens, while the hotel’s boutique spa, set in an original courtyard building, offers treatments and yoga.

Dunbrody’s setting, however, is perhaps the treasure itself; it sits on a cliff and woodland walks hem the estate and loop back into the village and the property, allowing guests to enjoy the finest country escapism within a short radius of their guest room.

9/10

The bill

B&B from €250.

Room to improve? Mere tweaks; gluten-free bread for a property with such a culinary rep were disappointing, the structure of the breakfast menu felt a little parsimonious and, décor-wise, a few lingering crushed velvet touches don't feel overly restful for this otherwise highly charming property.

Access for guests with disabilities? Yes, one accessible room on the ground floor with a lift to the second floor, wheelchair access to dining spaces and an outside terrace 

Family-friendly? The property is more geared toward adults, but family rooms are available and the three-bedroom guest lodge and cabin in the woods can sleep up to six.

Dogs welcome? Service dogs only.

EV chargers? Yes, one.

• The Hotel Examiner was a guest of Dunbrody House

• Visit dunbrodyhouse.com