Hotel review: This family-run West Cork treasure offers heart, character and plenty of flavour

Casey's of Baltimore is just a short walk from the Irish Examiner's no. 1 ranked place to eat

The exterior of Caseys of Baltimore in East Cork

Casey's of Baltimore, Baltimore, West Cork

Our rating: 9/10

Location

Nestled in one of Cork’s prime coastal settings, Baltimore, scarlet-brushed Casey’s lies just on the outskirts of the postcard-pretty West Cork village.

A five-minute walk takes you to the heart of the village and its pier, while from the property itself, views over Roaring Water Bay and the evocative ruins of Tullagh church come as standard.

Given that dreamy Wild Atlantic Way setting, Casey’s makes a fine base for some wandering

Given that dreamy Wild Atlantic Way setting, Casey’s makes a fine base for some wandering, while an increasing food buzz around the village is wooing visitors to linger. A popular choice for guests, for example, is to book a two-night stay; dining in the hotel on one evening, and another evening at the acclaimed Dede at The Customs House (voted number one in the Irish Examiner’s 100 Best Places To Eat). Whether it’s a foodie break, a Gaeltacht getaway, or some lazy island hopping, Casey’s makes a fine option to anchor down. One word to the wise: while Google-mapping, be sure not to muddle this property with Casey’s of Glengarriff (no relation), which lies an hour and a few peninsulas shy of Baltimore.

• 9/10

Style & design

An Original Irish Hotels member, Casey’s has been run by Ann and Michael Casey, and now their son Dominic, for half a century. The property blends a comfortingly traditional canvas with forward- thinking innovation and a locally inspired ethos. The pleasant guest experience includes a charming conservatory reception, blooming with plants, fuchsia crockery, and a shrine to the O’Donovan rowing brothers, all powered by solar panels and geothermal heating,and a centuries-old bar which serves craft beer from the hotel’s very own microbrewery. Personality abounds here.

An ad-hoc collection of potted plant cuttings (propagated by owner Ann Casey) are up for grabs on the conservatory floor, with the proceeds of any donations going to a local Down syndrome support group; a wonderfully personal hybrid of grassroots charity meeting unique guests souvenirs; can we see more of these, please? Elsewhere the hotel features a candle-lit restaurant nook, a calming residents’ lounge, a beer garden and breakfast room overlooking the bay. It ain’t all Instagram-led when it comes to design, but in the age of social media ennui, consider that a plus.

• 9/10

Service

There’s a homely air to Casey’s and I feel welcomed rather than merely greeted by all staff. Receptionist Katelin is a warm front-of-house presence, with myriad local tips, while owners Ann and Michael are hands-on throughout my stay. When talking to the owners, they ask whether it would be possible for me to thank all staff who’ve worked here over the years. That tells its own story.

• 9/10

Guest rooms

Casey’s is an intimate property with just 14 rooms, while guests can also book their Lodge and Cottage for more self-catering appeal. My hotel room, Cape Clear, is an airy, pleasant space with views to the bay in the distance. It’s a little neutral in look but there are colour pops from Indian elephant cushion to a map of Cape Clear. There’s also a compact en suite with refillable products by Revive Spa.

• 8/10

In-room perks

Rooms themselves have tea and (instant only) coffee-making facilities but better still, all guests are offered a welcome voucher for a tea, coffee and scone, which is always a lovely, homely ritual to begin a stay. I’m also offered a gluten-free equivalent, a tasty apple cinnamon cake which I enjoy, with Barry’s, in the residents’ relaxing bay view lounge.

A guest room at Casey's of Baltimore

• 8/10

On the menu

Casey’s is known for its seafood. Tempura prawns, a mussel dish of the day, crispy fish tacos and a spicy fish basket are just some of the menu stars

Casey’s is known for its seafood. Tempura prawns, a mussel dish of the day, crispy fish tacos and a spicy fish basket are just some of the menu stars. I start with tomato-based chowder, served with cream on the side, followed by a delicious John Dory with fresh sautéed spinach and a side of crisp roasties. There are good dessert choices too; an affogato featuring a scoop of Cork’s Glenown ice-cream wraps up my very fine dinner. Breakfast features a lovely fresh buffet of pastries, charcuterie, cheeses and fruits; I opt for Union Hall smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.

Breakfast features a lovely fresh buffet of pastries, charcuterie, cheeses and fruits; I opt for Union Hall smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.

• 8.75/10

Activities & amenities

There are no amenities on site but guests can enjoy free access to the local Wild Atlantic Leisure Centre which features a gym and pool. From the village, the most popular excursions include day trips to Sherkin or Cape Clear Island, sunset tours of Fastnet Rock or wildlife safaris with Whale Watch West Cork.

The beautiful sunlit reading room at Casey's of Baltimore

• 8/10

The bill

B&B from €146.

Room to improve?

Room interiors could do with a little more texture and character: throws, better-hung curtains or more touches which could tap into the room’s theme more.

Access for guests with disabilities? Groundfloor guest rooms and all dining spaces are wheelchair accessible.

Family-friendly? Family-friendly rooms and children’s menus.

Dogs welcome? Service dogs only.

EV chargers? Yes, two.

• The Hotel Examiner was a guest of Casey’s of Baltimore
• caseysofbaltimore.com