10 cosy Irish autumn escapes including spas, castles, and country homes

From cocooning country houses to sumptuous self-catering hideaways, Penny McCormick suggests a bounty of idyllic seasonal retreats

Summer may be over, but that doesn't mean there isn't an abundance of getaways this autumn.

Kelly’s Resort Hotel & Spa, Rosslare

A room at Kelly's Resort, Rosslare

Travel trends suggest that rather than squeezing a city into a long weekend, travellers are increasingly looking for something to take home beyond photographs: a new skill, or simply the time to slow down. On the rise are “learncations”, a forte at Kelly’s Resort & Spa. Hone your bridge skills, from October 4-9, indulge in some wine tasting, November 1-6, and unwind during ongoing wellness weekends in its Sea Spa. The midweek gardening course, October 11-16, presented by Head Gardener Deirdre Howlin and author Jimi Blake, is pitch-perfect for amateur enthusiasts. I attended last year and came away with tips and planting suggestions for my north-facing garden. Other highlights were walking Rosslare Strand and dining in The Sea Rooms. Full board overnight breaks cost €185 – incredible value – and also includes complimentary afternoon tea and cakes, additional daily programme of activities and entertainment for adults and children.

• kellys.ie

Ard na Sidhe, Co Kerry

Deer outside Ard Na Sidhe

This lakeside Edwardian country house is an enchanting mix of historic and homely in a secluded setting, ideal for a digital detox. Originally built by Lady Edith Gordon in 1913 as her dream house, she was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement. Much of the building’s original character survives in its panelled walls, oak doors, stone flooring and mullioned

windows. There are 18 spacious bedroom options across the Main House and the more contemporary Garden House. Televisions are provided on request, though there are other distractions: board games galore, an extensive library and plenty of fireside nooks for afternoon tea, and pre-dinner drinks. Food is a highlight, served in the pretty sage Dining Room. Guests can also borrow fishing rods or the hotel’s rowing boat to take out on Lake Caragh with its views of MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. For early birds, a morning run on Rossbeigh Beach is best followed by a dip in the outdoor jacuzzi surrounded by birdsong and the magnificent gardens. An overnight stay with breakfast and dinner is from €370 based on two people sharing.

• ardnasidhe.com

E Gray House, Co Waterford

The chic interiors of E Gray House, Co Waterford

Every detail, from the cork ceiling to the carefully selected furniture and artwork contribute to the charm and comfort this mid-century-style designer den. The main living space includes a well equipped kitchen with French press coffee and a few surprises in the pantry. The mezzanine bedroom with its picture window allows guests to wake up to views of Dungarvan Bay, while Clonea Beach is just 3km away. Triple glazing and insulation mean the cabin holds its warmth deep into winter. Guests can enjoy a cinema experience with a projector and hidden screen, while an outdoor fireplace on the patio also doubles as a barbecue. There are bicycles on hand to explore the Waterford Greenway; a must is a cycle to Mount Congreve for some leaf peeping or lunch in the Stables Café.

• waterfordgreenwayrental.ie

Head Gardener’s House, Fota House, Co Cork

Head Gardener's Cottage, Fota

The Irish Landmark Trust is a great source for self-catering stays in interesting places such as light houses, historic gate lodges and follies. The latest addition to its portfolio is the bucolic Head Gardener’s House at Fota House, recently restored and decorated by interior designer Jessie Wilkinson. Originally built in 1760 as a hunting lodge, it sits within Fota’s historic walled garden, with access and parking via a private entrance. It makes a supremely comfortable country retreat for up to five guests and their pets. Guests are welcomed by house manager Jacqui Boyle, who is on hand to share her knowledge of the surrounding area. Close by is Fota Wildlife Park and Fota Railway Station, the only island railway station in Ireland, providing links to Cork City, Cobh and beyond. Stays start from €458 for two nights.

• irishlandmark.com

House 15, Kenmare, Co Kerry

Dining at House 15, Kenmare

Brimming with galleries, cafés and restaurants, cosmopolitan Kenmare is mini-break heaven. Stay in House 15, a slick, contemporary B&B which is the embodiment of Kenmare’s name in Irish– An Neidín means “the little nest”. The scenic Reenagross woodland walk is five minutes from its door, as are the town’s delights. For gifts, visit Begley & Bowie, and don’t leave without chocolates by Benoît Lorge from his shop on Henry Street. There’s always a buzz around Kenmare’s annual Halloween Howl Parade, from October 26 to November and Kenmare Design Festival, from November 13-15. Pop over to Dromquinna Manor for one of its new garden tours with head gardener Holly McQuillan, or take in the impressive art collection at Park Hotel Kenmare on one of its daily art tours. Afterwards, head back to House 15, where its CellarWine bar serves sharing platters. Overnight stays with breakfast cost from €180.

• house15kenmare.com

Gregans Castle, Co Clare

A bedroom at Gragan's Castle in The Burren

Gregan’s Castle is a deft balancing act; unpretentious yet luxurious, its special ambiance having been artfully curated by owners Simon and Freddie Haden. There are 21 bedrooms and suites decorated with a mix of antiques and books, all with romantic countryside views. Savour a drink at The Corkscrew Bar before dinner created by chef Jonathan Farrell, who uses produce from the hotel’s organic garden. It’s no wonder the arty set – JRR Tolkien, Sean Scully and Seamus Heaney– found so much inspiration here. The gardens, views and relaxed atmosphere are conducive to creative flow. The two-night Luxury & The Cliffs stay includes breakfast, dinner on one evening and entrance tickets to the Cliffs of Moher, from €690 per night.

• gregans.ie

Native, Ballydehob, Co Cork

Native cabins in Cork. Picture: Daniëlle Siobhán, www.daniellesiobhan.com

The style and sustainability credentials of Native hotel is quietly garnering fans and awards for its interesting collaborations. Its new two-day Native Food Trail, €550, is designed to help guests discover the epicurean delights of the region and is based on recommendations from owners, Didi and Simon Ronan. These include the Skibbereen Farmer’s Market, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, a one-stop shop for some of West Cork’s finest artisans. Following a bracing walk and swim at Loch Hyne Nature Reserve, lunch is in Baltimore –try the crab sandwiches at Bushes or oysters at Jacob’s Bar. Windswept walks to the Beacon or a boat trip to Sherkin island are the prelude to dinner at Baba’de, the sister restaurant to the Michelin-starred Dede. On day two, cheese tasting and stocking up on picnic items to take to the Mizen peninsula are on the agenda. Walk to Brow Hill or swim at Barleycove before a pint and some seafood chowder at O’Sullivan’s in Crookhaven.

• native.ie

Mount Juliet Estate, Co Kilkenny

Riding out at Mount Juliet Estate. Picture: Patrick Browe

News that Rivals Season 2 will land on Disney+ from November 11 will delight Jilly Cooper fans. Arguably, Cooper has done much to popularise equestrian sports. Somewhere to enjoy the thrill of horsemanship in posh surroundings is at Mount Juliet Estate, Co Kilkenny where a new horseback experience is part of an indulgent stay, from €275. Novice and more experienced riders can stay in either the Manor House or more casual Hunter’s Yard. The hotel’s instructors lead guided trails through the estate’s parkland, which also provides scope for riverside walks and fishing. Afterwards, enjoy the Health Club with its swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

• mountjuliet.ie

The Mustard Seed, Co Limerick

A cosy room at Mustard Seed in Limerick.

It’s a dreamy time to visit this stylish country house where gorgeous bedrooms, grand reception rooms and mature gardens encourage guests to linger and enjoy the season of mellow fruitfulness.

A further attraction is chef Angel Pirev’s distinctive cooking; his table d’hote menus make use of produce grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden. During a two-night retreat, from €300, guests can savour off-road walking trails and local heritage sites, as well as discovering the delights of Adare village. Drop into Marlene and Co, for casual wear and sustainable fashion, pick up a matcha in The Poppy Cup, some pastries in the Adare Grocer, or try lunch at The Dunraven Arms.

• mustardseed.ie

Perryville House, Kinsale

A junior suite at Perryville house.

Known as Ireland’s gourmet capital, it’s best to plot any visit around restaurant reservations. Use your Ireland’s Blue Book vouchers to stay at Perryville House, from €335. Many of its rooms overlook the harbour, and are decorated with a mix of antique furniture and Colefax & Fowler fabrics. Breakfast is a highlight, while afternoon tea and pre-dinner drinks are served in its Garden and Drawing Rooms.There’s no shortage of dining options, from the Michelin-starred Bastion to the Indian-inspired Rare.

For small plates, try The Black Pig and St Francis Provisions, and end the night at Prim’s Bookshop which turns into a candlelit wine bar at night. In between dining, mooch around the shops– it’s impossible to leave Granny’s Bottom Drawer empty handed or La Bougie at Barrack Hill. Its latest candle, Cedar Atlas, is a herbal hit of thyme, oud and cedar wood, evocative of autumn.

• perryvillehouse.com