The insider's guide to Beara Peninsula: Where to stay, eat and explore in West Cork
A stroll along the Beara peninsula.
Ask a local — from Allihies to Eyeries, from Castletown to Kilmacalogue — where they’re from and they may not respond with “Cork” or “The Kingdom”, but simply “Beara”.
For Beara, the country’s most south-western peninsula shared by both Munster counties is an awe-inspiring land that transcends county identity.
Perhaps it’s its relatively vast, and far-flung nature which adds to its cultural autonomy and indeed allure: This is where a journey rewards you with the county’s best scenery, yet minus the crowds that visit its neighbouring peninsulas.
For those who live here, the appeal of Beara is arrestingly clear.
“I came to Beara 34 years ago to be in this incredible scenery and never left,” local artist Sarah Walker, tells me. Sarah works out of her waterfront gallery in the peninsula’s largest town, Castletownbere or, as it’s known to locals, Castletown.
“As one of Ireland’s largest ports, fishing is the spirit here in Castletown. It’s not a touristy town but its authenticity is the heart of the appeal to myself and so many visitors. Wonderful walks are nearby where you can steep yourself in nature and history.”
Sarah lives just above Eyeries village which she lauds for its charming streetscapes and tremendous community spirit.
“But it’s not just a pretty face,” she adds, “with a spectacular coastal loop walk, the village boasts great food, a very warm welcome, and even hosts an annual family festival in July, which is so much fun!”
And that’s just a taster. For more inspiration, here’s our guide to some of the most popular destinations and hidden treasures on the peninsula to lure you southwest this summer.
Glengarriff, the buzzing gateway to Beara is fortuitously about as touristy as the peninsula gets.
Stroll the main streets of boutiques and woollen mills, sup al-fresco pints at Harrington’s pub or take the short ferry ride to Garinish Island ( HeritageIreland.ie), one of Ireland’s great horticultural oases.
When it comes to other villages, it’s a contentious matter locally whether Eyeries or Allihies is the prettiest, but these two kaleidoscopic beauties glow with postcard prettiness and are well worth the mileage.
You can’t traverse Beara either without driving the Healy Pass, quite possibly Ireland’s most dramatic mountain road which spaghettis from Adrigole in Cork before reaching its summit above Lough Glanmore on the Kerry border.
Attraction-wise, Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Meditation Centre, which opened its new spectacular temple just last year, is one of the most sublime settings in the country to relax.
Retreats are popular here but Dzogchen is also day-visitor friendly and delivers a zen-filled escape in the truest sense ( DzogchenBeara.org).
Beara is also stacked with natural beauty spots to explore. OutdoorsIreland.com offers dreamy Glengarriff Bay kayaking safaris where you can paddle through crystal-clear kelp forests while observing curious harbour seals and white-tailed sea eagles.
Wildlife lovers can also visit Glengarriff Nature Reserve ( GlengarriffNatureReserve.ie) which is a wonderful location for all ages to get active amidst native Atlantic rainforest.
Budding flora and fauna experts can keep an eye out for red squirrels, otters, ferns, and foxgloves.
Within the Kerry pocket, Gleninchaquin Park ( GleninchaquinPark.com) remains a hidden gem and features a wonderful waterfall with various grade strolling and hiking trails. Be sure to visit the nearby Uragh stone circle en route.
Perhaps the peninsula’s most popular attraction, the Dursey Island Cable Car, is Europe’s only open-sea cable car. It transports hordes of summer visitors to and from the country’s most southwesterly island.
Dursey ( DurseyIsland.ie) is far more than just a cable car ride, however, so budget time to hike to Dursey’s truly spectacular cliffs where views to Bull Rock are breathtaking.
Dursey Boat Tours also offer daily trips around the island from Garnish Pier — not to be confused with Garinish Island 60km away!
Speaking of islands, pencil in a visit to Bere Island, reachable via ferry from Castletownbere. It makes for an excellent day trip or overnight excursion with its beaches, vibrant community life (including weekend park runs) and hiking.
Its trail to Ardnakinna Lighthouse, one of Cork’s lesser-known but most impressively-located lighthouses makes for a fine out-and-back route.
History and heritage lovers meanwhile will enjoy a visit to the Allihies Copper Mine Museum ( acmm.ie) which offers an insight into Beara’s fascinating history as a mining hub fadó fadó — it also features a great little cafe with nice bites and outdoor dining too.
Sarah Walker Gallery ( sarahwalker.ie) in Castletownbere is an ambient space tucked inside a former pierside carriage house which features works from the local artist as well as other artisan makers. There’s also a kids’ corner for young creatives.
The gallery also regularly hosts cultural events like storyteller Clare Murphy’s show, The Spanking Goddess and Other Discarded Tales, on September 20.
Perhaps pair that with a visit to the Bere Island Arts Festival ( BereIslandArtsFestival.ie) which takes place from September 18 to 21 this year.
Finally, food lovers can discover the wild tastes of West Cork with two experiences hosted by Two Green Shoots ( TwoGreenShoots.com) in Glengarriff this summer.
Sip foraged teas by a campfire on the wild tea tour or feast fireside after exploring re-wilded mountains on the Taste of Esk Tour & Dinner.
Beara offers plenty of colourful food stops. In Allihies, Beara Barista is a handy spot to fuel up on organic coffee and their signature hot dogs when hitting the beach (@bearabarista).
In Eyeries, Beara Necessities is a restaurant serving everything from fresh coffee to lobster po boys (@beara_necessities_).
If self-catering on Beara, a great option is The Hag’s Kitchen ( TheHagsKitchen.ie) in Castletownbere which offers gourmet takeaways with options like monkfish Thai curry or nduja-loaded fries.
You can dine-in with orders at O’Sheas pub down the road, and they also deliver to the Eyeries area.
For seafood al fresco, Helen’s Bar in Kilmacalogue has become a popular lunch haunt for Wild Atlantic Way tourists. Fresh mussels from across the pier and open crab sandwiches enjoyed al fresco make it a true summer hotspot.
The Dursey Deli food truck (@murphysdursey), located below the mainland’s cable station is a great spot to savour your first lobster roll of the season too.
Down the peninsula, Dzogchen Beara also features a really gorgeous cafe and puts the buddha in its tasty all-vegan buddha bowls with deliciously fresh salad fillings. Possibly the most spectacular cafe views in the county too?
If visiting Bere Island, Eoghan’s Coffee Hub (@eoghans_coffee_hub) has opened for its second season. It’s perfectly located along the Ardnakinna Lighthouse trail and serves delicious Maher’s coffee.
An absolute top recommendation for your Beara stay is Bóthar Buí in Ardgroom.
This magical self-catering stay features an original 1850s cottage which functions as the kitchen and dining area, along with three architect-designed contemporary living spaces, added in the 1970s.
They include four bedrooms, a huge panoramic studio plus two bathrooms, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows to let you soak in the bay. A truly unique group gathering spot with all-season appeal.
Wild Atlantic Glamping on Bere Island is one of the most impressive glamping sites in the country and features quaintly kitted-out bell tents and an excellent contemporary-build communal area.
Guests can also enjoy private sea access with a lovely little beach directly on the site.
To overnight on the picture-postcard main street of Allihies, check in to the O’Sullivan family’s Seaview B&B.
This traditional bed and breakfast, fittingly bottled in primary red and yellow, offers great hospitality and comfy rooms with a tasty breakfast to set you up for touring.
An Síbín in Lauragh, at the base of the Healy Pass, is a former coaching inn which today operates as a highly-regarded restaurant and wine bar with charming guesthouse accommodation on offer too.
- @ansibinlauragh2024
Finally, keep Mossie’s guesthouse in Adrigole very much on your Beara shortlist too. The boutique property featured in our Hotel Examiner review on June 28 with a very impressive 9.5/10 rating.
On Bere Island, the secret strand at Ardaragh offers Mamma Mia levels of beach beauty and makes a heavenly spot to bask upon on a summer’s day.
Allihies is blessed with two beautiful beaches from Ballydonegan in the village, which is more popular with tourists, to nearby Trá an Phéarla where the draw is in the name.
A slightly more accessible swim spot is, Zetland Pier, 10km south of Glengarriff, which is a quintessential Beara beauty spot, ideal for scenic dips.
For confident wild swimmers who prefer freshwater, Glanmore Lough along the Healy Pass is a gorgeous setting where the backstroke will deliver some epic views.
A great cool-off spot for hikers is Pooleen in Glengarriff Nature Reserve, where you can dip in the river’s refreshing waters.
Though geographically not on Beara, Manning’s in Ballylickey is a great spot to load up on artisanal picnic bits before you arrive on the peninsula.
- @manningemporium
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