Darina Allen travels to the UK to visit organic growers, farm shops and farmers markets

* Roth Bar and Grill Lemon Curd Muffins
* Emily Watkin’s Dark Chocolate and Cherry Arctic Roll
* Dill Pancakes with Smoked Salmon and Crème Fraiche
* Beetroot and Raspberry Ice-Cream

It’s surely a decade and a half since we came over to the UK to visit organic growers, beautiful gardens, farm shops, farmers markets, farmhouse cheesemakers. 

Last time there was a tremendous air of optimism, demand for organic produce was growing, prices were more or less viable but now, 15 years later, in the wake of Brexit, there is quite a different mood tethering between despair and resignation.

There seems to be huge confusion among farmers about what on earth to grow or produce to actually manage to earn a crust.

Helen Browning of Eastbook Farm in Wiltshire is the biggest organic pig farmer in the UK with 200 sows and their happy piglets chasing each other gleefully around the fields on her beautiful farm near Bishopstone close to Swindon.

Most of the pork goes into her range of juicy organic sausages and hotdogs and is also served on the menu at The Royal Oak, the pub she and her partner Tim Finney bought partly to revitalise the local village.

This really resonated with me because for three days we had been winding our way through beautiful Cotswold villages, all hollyhocks and roses with honey-coloured granite houses and Farrow and Ball colours but often not a shop, pub or even a postoffice in sight.

In Ireland the decision to cap the size of retail outlets and not to allow large supermarkets to be built in greenfield sites, has, I wouldn’t quite say saved, but at least protected the livelihood of many of our smaller shopkeepers and kept many of our villages alive.

In Southrop, I stayed at Thyme, a beautiful country house with an excellent cooking school near the tiny village of Lechade. 

www.thyme.co.uk 

It too has a pub with excellent food, even plates of hand-cut pasta negra. Not all pubs in the UK have good food but many have and occasionally a comfy, couple of reasonably priced rooms.

We also loved The Plough in Kingham where Emily Watkins’s food draws people from far and wide to yet another beautiful village with no shop. 

For breakfast, as well as homemade jams, marmalades and a generous fry of local bacon, handmade sausages, home-grown tomatoes and good eggs, they serve sweet little drop scones. 

www.thekinghamplough.co.uk 

In the UK, baked beans are a favourite part of a breakfast fry. 

At Thyme they made their own with fat judion beans cooked in tomato sauce served with a thick slice of their own hand-cut ham and a fried egg. Another tasty brunch dish. 

I also enjoyed little dill crumpets with smoked salmon, crème fraiche and dill sprigs, a light and delicious start to the day.

Another cool idea for an icecream combination, raspberry and beetroot, came from the ice-cream booth at the super-cool Jolly Nice Farm Shop not far from Stroud.

Here two young chaps bought a disused gas station and built a covered farm shop underneath the canopy selling fresh herbs, organic meat, spanking vegetables, fruit, local cheeses and a whole range of carefully chosen deli products as well as craft beers and natural wines.

There was a takeout café with fresh edgy food to eat at picnic tables in the meadow behind the shop or in one of two super cool yurts with stoves in case it got chilly. What a super idea.

Another of my favourites was the Roth Bar and Grill at Hauser & Wirth in Bruton for both art, sculpture and food lovers. This is definitely a place to add to your ‘must do’ list check out. 

Among many good things, I particularly remember a lemon curd muffin that I enjoyed with a superb cup of coffee.

www.hauserwirthsomerset.com 

Roth Bar and Grill Lemon Curd Muffins

Darina Allen travels to the UK to visit organic growers, farm shops and farmers markets

Makes 12

  • 170 g (6 oz) unsalted butter
  • 310 g (11 oz) castor sugar
  • 4 organic eggs
  • 600 g (1¼ lb) self raising flour
  • 300 ml (½ pint) whole milk
  • a pinch of fine salt

Lemon Curd

Tangy delicious lemon curd can be made in a twinkling, smear it over a sponge or onto fresh bread, buttery scones or meringues.

Makes 2 x 200ml (7fl oz/scant 1 cup) jars:

  • 2oz (50g/1/2 stick) butter
  • 3 1/2oz (100g/scant 1/2 cup) caster sugar
  • grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  • 2 organic eggs and 1 organic egg yolk whisked (keep white aside for meringue)

Method

Grease and line a 12-muffin tin with greaseproof paper cups. Heat the oven to 175°C/325°F/gas mark 3.

First make the muffins. 

Cream the butter and sugar together. 

Add a beaten egg, one at a time until well incorporated into the butter/sugar mix. 

Gently mix in the flour and salt. Then add the milk, mix well.

Bake for 25-28 minutes in a fan oven. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

Next make the lemon curd. Melt the butter on a very low heat. 

Add the caster sugar, lemon zest and juice and then add the whisked eggs. 

Stir carefully over a gentle heat with a straight-ended wooden spatula until the mixture coats the back it. 

Remove from the heat and pour into a bowl or sterilised jar (it will thicken further as it cools.)

Cut a hole on the top of each cooled muffin. 

Use a piping bag to pipe the lemon curd into each muffin until oozing out of the top.

Delicious with a cup of good coffee!

Emily Watkin’s Dark Chocolate and Cherry Arctic Roll

Darina Allen travels to the UK to visit organic growers, farm shops and farmers markets

Serves 6

  • Flourless Chocolate Sponge
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 85g caster sugar
  • 10g cocoa powder
  • 45g melted dark chocolate
  • 3 egg whites
  • Cherry ice-cream
  • 650g fresh cherry fruit puree
  • 225g caster sugar
  • 125ml double cream

Method

For the flourless chocolate sponge, heat the oven to 190C.

Line a large, flat baking tray with baking parchment. 

Whisk the yolks and sugar to make a sabayon (pale and volumised). 

Sift the cocoa into the yolks and sugar. Add the chocolate. Whisk the egg whites until they form peaks.

Take a large spoon of the whites and mix into the chocolate base. 

Fold the whisked egg whites into the other ingredients. 

Pour onto the baking tray and bake for 6 minutes. Leave to cool.

For the cherry ice cream, first pit the cherries, blitz, then pass through a sieve. 

Bring the sugar and cream to a simmer and stir until the sugar has dissolved. 

Pour into the cherry puree. 

Churn in an icecream maker or freeze in a bowl, stirring every half hour. (or you can freeze in ice cubes and then place in a food processor to blend into an ice cream). 

To make the arctic roll, place a roll of clingfilm on a chopping board. 

Carefully turn the chocolate sponge onto the clingfilm. Place the icecream onto the clingfilm. 

Use the clingfilm to help roll the sponge and icecream into a log. 

Tie the clingfilm at the ends. 

Place back in the freezer until needed.

To serve: Cut into individual portions, dust with cocoa. Serve with fresh cherries.

Dill Pancakes with Smoked Salmon and Crème Fraiche

Darina Allen travels to the UK to visit organic growers, farm shops and farmers markets

Serves 8 Savoury Pancake Makes 12 pancakes

  • 110g (4ozs/1 cup) self-raising flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 25g (1oz/1/8 cup) castor sugar
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 egg
  • 110ml (4fl ozs/1/2 cup) milk
  • drop of sunflower oil, for greasing
  • 2 tablespoons chopped dill
  • 8 slices of smoked salmon
  • Crème fraiche
  • Dill sprigs
  • 28cm (11in) frying pan

Method

Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl, add the sugar and salt and stir to mix. 

Make a well in the centre, crack in the egg and whisk, gradually drawing in the flour from the edge. 

Add the milk gradually, whisking all the time, to form a smooth batter. 

Lightly grease a frying pan and warm it over a moderate heat. 

Drop 3 tablespoons of the batter into the pan, keeping well apart so they don’t stick together. 

Cook for about 2 minutes or until bubbles appear on the surface and begin to burst and the drop scones are golden underneath, then flip them over and cook on the other side for a minute or until golden on this side as well.

Remove from the pan and serve warm on a hot plate with a ruffle of thin slices of smoked salmon, a dollop of crème fraiche and a few sprigs of dill.

Beetroot and Raspberry Ice-Cream

Darina Allen travels to the UK to visit organic growers, farm shops and farmers markets

Serves 6

  • 225g (8oz) fresh raspberries
  • 225g (8oz) cooked ruby beetroot
  • 175g (6oz / 3/4 cup) sugar
  • 150ml (5fl oz/generous 1/2 cup) water
  • 1 teaspoon gelatine
  • 600ml (1 pint) whipped cream Garnish with fresh raspberries and fresh mint leaves

Method

Purée and sieve the raspberries. 

Dissolve the sugar in the water and boil for 2 minutes. Sponge the gelatine in 1 tablespoon (1 American tablespoon + 1 teaspoon) of water and dissolve in a saucepan of simmering water. 

Purée the cooked beetroot with the syrup, allow to cool. 

Then add the raspberry purée, add a little to the gelatine and then mix. 

Fold in whipped cream and freeze in a covered container. Serve the ice-cream on chilled plates.

HOT TIPS

Date for your Diary: Don’t miss the fun at the fourth annual Ballymaloe Garden Festival which takes place on Saturday 3 and Sunday 4 of September 2016 on the grounds of Ballymaloe House. 

The weekend will bloom with talks, walks, workshops, demonstrations, food and fun designed to stimulate and excite rookie and veteran gardeners alike. All events are included in the €8 admission, children under 16 go free. www.gardenfestival.ballymaloe.ie 

The attributes of raw milk become increasingly evident as a growing body of research indicates the enhanced health benefits.

It can be difficult to find but the good news is Dan and Ann Aherne from Ballysimon outside Midleton now sell their beautiful organic raw cow’s milk in glass bottles from their stall at both Midleton Farmers Market, Saturdays 9am-2pm and Mahon Point Farmers Market on Thursday from 10am-3pm – get there early it sells out fast.

Tel: 086 165 9258 ahernsorganicfarm@gmail.com 


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