Rachel Marie Walsh reports.


Top 5 autumn perfume launches

Fashion’s biggest names have some gorgeous new fragrances launching this month. Rachel Marie Walsh reports.

Top 5 autumn perfume launches

Spritz and step into a new-season creation by your favourite label.

Chloé Fleur de Parfum, €82.60/50ml, €104.10/€75ml

Chloé’s late founder Gaby Aghion did not have the same superstitious attachment to roses that Chanel felt for camellias, but she did find rose-tinted beige especially flattering.

Coty owns the brand’s fragrance licence and made roses its olfactory signature from the beginning.

Various species crop up in 2008’s Chloé Eau de Parfum, its seasonal limited-editions and in Roses de Chloé, a perfume launched to celebrate the house’s 50th anniversary in 2013.

Fleur de Parfum is the rosiest yet. This new addition has a distinctive pistil rose and cherry-blossom heart topped with freesia and verbena notes.

The base is white rice powder, an unexpected cosmetic finish that suits the overwhelmingly girly look and smell of this perfume.

The glass bottle, designed to emulate the sleeve of a Chloé blouse, has a rose-beige ribbon round its neck.

Viktor and Rolf BonBon Couture, €103/50ml, €132/90ml

More than a decade of catwalk shows since Viktor and Rolf’s Flowerbomb launch, I fear their awesome technical details and flair for political messaging through fashion will never inspire the same devotion as their delectable fragrances.

The bottled stuff is undeniably easier to pull off and even pull out, as in the case of their grenade-shaped, pin-stoppered Spicebomb aftershave.

Here’s the latest gem: Bonbon Couture. Touted as an ‘haute couture’ interpretation of the 2014’s Bonbon perfume, it is super-sweet and heady.

The caramel and jasmine heart-notes are especially strong.

The original peach, orange and mandarin top notes remain, but the base is intensified with blonde tobacco and vanilla.

Bonbon Couture’s bow-shaped pink bottle has a darker knot and lighter loops than the original, which was conceived as a giant wrapped candy.

Versace Dylan Blue Pour Homme, €84.50/100ml, €63/50ml

Versace’s new aftershave has a man’s name. Versace, which from its inception has counter-culturally objectified beautiful men in advertising, depicting women as goddesses who either dominate them or accessorise with them.

Versace names its men’s fragrances after winged love-gods and blue jeans and sometimes not much at all, as with 2013’s perfunctorily-titled Versace Oud Noir Pour Homme or 2008’s Versace Pour Homme.

‘Dylan Blue’ imposes a character, one “full of individuality.” He smells of “strength and charisma”.

In the campaign, which includes a short film by Bruce Weber, he is represented by four male models and five athletes, including mixed-martial artists Adam von Rothfelder and Lukasz Grabowski.

They are all shown alternatively kissing one another and fighting, sometimes over Gigi Hadid.

She in turn seems intent on either kissing them or doing them bodily harm, kick-boxing their cute faces and shoving them off buildings.

There’s also a scene in which two ‘Dylans’ do press-ups on a railroad track to the sound of an oncoming train while another rolls around in briefs beneath the font of a fire hydrant.

One could be forgiven for confusing this strong new Versace man with the sexy-and-sexualised version of old.

Or for feeling confused in general. Everyone looks gorgeous though. To the nose Dylan Blue is a fougère, an attractive wood-based scent with tonka bean and musk.

His black pepper and ambrox heart is topped with grapefruit and bergamot from the Versace family’s native Calabria. If you are considering him as a gift it is worth noting his resemblance to Dior Sauvage and Prada for Men.

Chanel No. 5 L’Eau, €126/100ml

Chanel does not do straplines (launches are heralded by a poetic descriptions on crisp white PDFs) but if it did, No. 5 L’Eau’s would read “Not Your Mother’s No. 5”.

There is no explicit reference to this fragrance being a youthful take on a classic but it is advertised with pictures of Lily Rose Depp holding a comically large bottle that emphasises her girlish proportions (a styling technique previously used in Marc Jacobs’ Oh Lola! and Daisy ads).

The scent itself is not some diluted version of No. 5, but a unique creation by Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge.

It is light and a little warmer than its parent.

The essence of No 5’s floral chorus is present but powdery, with slightly more prominent citrus notes and a very noticeable May rose heart. Top notes are lemon, mandarin, orange, and neroli, all splashed over rose, ylang-ylang and jasmine.

The base is cedar and white musk. No. 5 is pretty much universally appreciated but quite ubiquitous.

Even long-term fans will enjoy this sweet variation.

Marc Jacobs Divine Decadence, €87.60/50ml, €121.90/100ml

Marc Jacobs surprised us with his Decadence last year.

The sophisticated loner in his irreverent, cutesy fragrance family, it has a bottle that looks like a little green handbag and comes with its own shoulder chain.

Divine Decadence is a lighter take on its rich, woody predecessor.

The blend features champagne and orange blossom top-notes over a bouquet of gardenia, hydrangea and honeysuckle.

These fade into a warm amber and vanilla base. Vanilla, flowers and champagne is essentially a great night, bottled.

The fragrance’s atomiser is also a green snakeskin handbag, complimented by a thick gold chain and black tassel.

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