Rachel Marie Walsh reports from backstage at London Fashion Week on the autumn looks you can wear now.
New Blooms at Emilia Wickstead
Fashion is gradually ignoring seasons in favour of ‘see-now, buy-now’ selling and beauty is keeping pace, albeit by introducing individual products on the catwalk rather than entire collections.
Makeup brands once used the shows to tease next-season launches but these days anything new applied backstage is on counters before you can say “well that’s not especially autumnal”.
Sisley, which partnered with Duchess Catherine favourite Emilia Wickstead, debuted Phyto-Blush Twist, €50, on model cheeks this week. The sheer gel-cream is available now and comes in fuchsia, peony pink and papaya.
Sisley Lead Artist Florrie White said they gave the complexion a “healthy, confident warmth”.
She kept the skin natural otherwise, contouring lightly and defining the eyes with a little shimmer.
“This is ‘modern nude’ makeup for a cool girl with life experience.”
Complexions were evened out with a very small amount of Sisleÿa Le Teint, €89.59, applied to well-moisturised skin.
Phyto Cernes Eclat Tinted Eye Concealer, €75.50, neutralised dark circles.
Eyebrows were filled in and groomed upwards, using Phyto-Sourcils Perfect, €41, in an effort to look undone and bring out the bone structure.
Eyelashes were curled and Phyto Ombré Glow, €35, shimmer shadow was applied in the inner corners of the eyes to open them out and give a decisive and determined look.
Sisley’s So Intense Mascara, €47, was then applied into the roots of the lashes only, to frame the eyes, and bring out the colour of the iris.
A slight emphasise was placed on each model’s bone structure by using Sisley’s Sun Glow Gel, €61, under the cheekbones.
To add dimension to the complexion, Phyto-Poudre Libre in Matte, €63, was dusted under the eyes and around the T-zone to contrast with skin’s natural highlights.
Terracotta Lips at Topshop Unique
There is nothing more disheartening for beauty writers than hearing a makeup artist’s brief was to do a “barely there” face for a show. Where is the fun in that?
In real life it just looks like lack of effort. Subtle application is fine but I’d like colour, please, and just enough sparkle to be interesting.
Topshop Unique is a fun show, every look is either urban-chic or club-wear, and the makeup is never neutral.
Lead artist Lynsey Alexander took inspiration “from Nineties grunge and rave scenes. I wanted skin to look the right side of radiant and clumpy lashes and a blurred, stained lip that recall post-party anti-perfection”.
She used Topshop Beauty throughout.
She created an evanescent glow with an all-over base of Glow Prime & Finish, €16.50, and touches of Air Cushion Skin Perfector, €16, where needed.
A cool wash of Cream Blush in Dalliance, €10, effected “the flush of Nineties nights at The Haçienda [nightclub]”.
Faces were lightly sculpted with a slick of Contour Wand, €16, under the cheekbones.
Lashes were curled and rendered ‘end of night’ clumpy with several coats of False Lash Intense Mascara, €13.
Lynsey pinched them into small spidery sections to give the appearance of multiple layers. Eyelids were covered with a slick of clear gloss, continuing the luminous effect.
“I wanted terracotta lips are with a worn, ’just-bitten’ look, “ says the artist, who used Topshop’s new Lip Paint Kit, €25, in Crazy Beautiful, available March 16.
She applied the paint all over the lips and topped it with the kit’s Mattifier for a muted finish.
“I kept the colour accentuated and solid at the centre whilst blurring the edges with a cotton bud for a feathered, imperfect pout.”
Rainbow Eyes at Mark Fast
Bold stripes of cream eye-colour were the statement look of the season, from the navy Maybelline Colour Tattoo 24hr Cream Gel Shadow, €10.49, that Gigi and Bella Hadid rocked at Versus to the tricolour (orange, white and cyan) MAC Chromaline, €19.45, lids at Richard Malone.
At Mark Fast, Benefit Head Artist Lisa Potter-Dixon ran with the designer’s fantasy of a dragon-sleighing heroine and decided she’d wear rainbows on her eye contours.
“She’s frozen under a rainbow with the soft reflection of the colour wheel embedded in her skin,” said the expert.
To get the model’s velvety complexion, Lisa mixed a few drops of Dandelion Shy Beam Liquid Highlighter, €27.50, with Benefit’s Hello Flawless! Oxygen Wow Liquid Foundation, €37, finger- blending the result all over the face.
She “quiffed” the brows by drawing hair-like strokes with Precisely, My Brow Brow Pencil, €26, and then brushing Gimme Brow Volumising Eyebrow Gel, €26, through the hair for a feathered look.
In lieu of contouring, Lisa layered three cheek colours for a more youthful “upside-down blush” effect.
She began by patting Majorette Cream Blush, €34, from the temple down to the top of the cheekbone and then blending towards the hairline.
She went over the peachy shade with GALifornia, €34, a golden-pink blush, and then Hervana, €34, for a “fresh, pastel-like finish”.
For the eyes, Lisa went back to Hervana for purple powder, which she buffed into the outer corners and then blended outwards towards the blush.
She patted Watts Up! Face Highlighter, €35, in the inner corners for a more open appearance.
A damp liner-brush dipped in GALifornia and traced along the water-line created a colourful contrast with two coats of They’re Real Lengthening Mascara in Beyond Blue!, €26.
A bold shade of They’re Real! Double The Lip Lipstick and Liner, €22, finished the look.
Lisa especially likes ‘Flame Game’.
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