If you’ve failed with a detox, this season’s make-up is about creating — or faking — that elusive, healthy glow.
“The main thread throughout the season is the idea of outdoor, day-lit beauty,” says M.A.C’s director of make-up artistry, Terry Barber.
“We used oils, highlighters, and even super-fine glitters to emulate dewdrop skin and flickers of sunlight.” The mantra is: ‘skin is in’.
Wholesome femininity is key to this raw, rugged, natural look, as if exposed to a spring day. It’s nonchalant, fresh and seems like a no-make-up look.
“A dewy finish is simply more feminine than a matte one,” says Barber.
“Use highlights and emollient textures to emulate the way that light falls on fresh, young skin.”
Ditch the fake tan and bronzing powders for cream blushes and sculpting creams.
Brights and pastels have been given a soft-focus makeover with sheer washes. A palette of hazy pastels, like lilac, peach and eggshell blue will brighten the face and play up features subtly. It’s a natural, yet tinted effect. “All the shades I’m using this season have a fleshy tone to them,” says M.A.C make-up artist, Lucia Pieroni. “It’s all about playing with the tones that exist naturally on, and within, the skin.”
Classic orange, true red, bright cerise — pick a bright to make your pout hyper-coloured. These high-wattage lips are packed with pigment, but dense in the centre and blurred at the edges, to tone down the outline. “Don’t be afraid to blur your lip line. Use a cotton bud to soften the edge for a more subtle look,” says Val Garland, L’Oreal Paris make-up artist. “If you want a perfect pout, then use a lip liner to define the edge — this will help keep the lipstick where you want it, inside the line.”
The bold, androgynous brow has dominated the last few beauty seasons, but spring is about the lashes. Think ’more is more’. Take inspiration from the 1960s and don’t skimp on application. Load up lashes with at least two coats for calculated clumpiness.
“The key to this look is ensuring you start mascara application right at the roots of the lashes,” says Mathias Van Hooff, L’Oreal Paris make-up artist. “Try layering three coats of mascara for dramatic volume.”
Get off the starting blocks with the sporty, radiance vibe, via your cheekbones. Barely-there looks will benefit from a spring-like apricot-, peach- or pink-toned blusher to warm up the complexion.
“To achieve extra dimension and warmth in the face, use two colours of blush, layering the lighter shade over the darker one,” says Pat McGrath, Max Factor global creative-design director. “Alternatively, just blend two similar shades together.”
Boost your radiance with subtle highlighter on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.
Brightening up your wardrobe? Counteract the colour with muted make-up. McGrath heralded muted shades of mustard yellows, mossy greens, and vintage blue-greys backstage at Prada, to balance-out the bold tones of the clothes.
Keep the muted colours soft with a simple wash of colour across eyes. Avoid using a harsh, dark eye-pencil. Keep the focus on the colour with perfected skin.
TRIED AND TESTED
Bia Beauty’s Skin Super-food, €12.95 for 60ml
If your skin is bad, try this little multi-tasker. Using 100% natural ingredients, we found it very soothing on problem skin. It was easily absorbed, with no greasy excess.
We found a little went a long way, and it was best used at night, when the skin had a chance to enjoy the benefits, without being smothered in make-up.
The packaging is great, a very light, airless pump that prevents germs from dip-ping fingers — and, of course, prolongs its shelf life. Fits nicely into a small make-up bag, too.
Stocked in selected pharmacies, health-food stores, gift stores and beauty salons nationwide, as well as available online at www.biabeauty.com.
STUFF WE LIKE - Staying natural
Max Factor Miracle Touch Creamy Blusher, €10.09
It’s creamy, dreamy and gives cheeks an inviting glow. Pop it in your pocket and dab on during the day to keep you looking your dewy best.
Giorgio Armani Belladonna Highlighting Palette, €65, limited edition.
Go all Hollywood with this shim-mering powder. Apply it layer by layer until you get the shade of champagne just right for your skin tone.
No7 Instant Illusions Rapid Radiance Balm, €22
Take a short cut on a dull skin day with this smart light-reflective balm. Apply under foundation and bask in the healthy glow all through the day.
Clinique Colour Surge Butter Shine Lipstick , €20.
This beauty glides on, loading your lips with moisture and head-turning shine. Perfect to brighten up those code-orange days.
MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural, €29.
Complete your barely there spring look with this powder. It’s packed with minerals and slowly baked to give an impressive matt finish. Apply to fix foundation or on its own for a light touch. Available in ten shades.
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