Go bold this autumn with a Star Trek-style statement lip or a purple smokey eye.
YSL Beauté ‘Scandal’ Collection
There is a moment in most episodes of Sky Living’s Scandal at which all seems lost.
And in this moment White House Communications Director Olivia Pope appears desolate and we wonder if this time— this time — her father/inner demon/latest GOP nemesis has her beaten.
But then something clicks, her eyes round with inspiration and she jumps up and sweeps from the room, cape-coat and curly hair flying.
Her plan will shield her erstwhile lover’s administration from disgrace once more.
Political scandals, even after five seasons and with a trope this established, are pretty compelling. Fashion scandals not so much.
We’re so used to designers attempting to shock with over-sexed ads, sheer clothes and ever more elaborate shows that it’s hard to raise a well-shaped brow.
This new ‘Scandal’ makeup collection is named not for modern couture but the response to a 1971 show at which Yves Saint Laurent’s clothes were thought to celebrate the style of women who survived WW2 occupation on their backs (the ones who had their heads shaved during the Liberation).
Though it took a drubbing in the press at the time, wealthy women quickly adopted some of the collection’s more provocative pieces, thereby qualifying questionable taste as fashion.
Anjelica Huston even modelled them for Vogue Italia. Quoted in the March 1971 issue of Vogue Paris, Saint Laurent, who was eight when Charles de Gaulle made his rousing speech at the Hôtel de Ville, said that “the young, they don’t have any memories.”
The bold and clashing colours of this autumn’s makeup collection recall his desire to be both seductive and retro.
Fanta lips courtesy of YSL Rouge Pur Couture The Mattes, €33, in ‘Orange Seventies,’ raccoon eyes painted with YSL Full Metal Shadow The Mats, €29, in ‘Plum Velvet’ or any combination of shades from the YSL Couture ‘Scandal’ Palette, €55, creates a very strong look.
You can lighten up with a slick of the more sheer YSL Volupté Tint-in-Oil, €29, in ‘Make Me Nude’ or just restrict the colour indulgence to your nails with YSL La Laque Couture, €23, in ‘Fur Green’ or ‘Vintage Plum.’
Dior ’Skyline’ Collection
Nothing signals the end of summer makeup like plum-coloured lids and coppery lips. Skin-wise, however, Dior Beauty is still hooked on contouring.
‘Skyline’ is inspired by architecture, using makeup to define facial structure in the same manner a photographer uses light and shade to create beautiful images.
Highlighters add volume, bronzers create shadows, buffing smoothes harsh lines...you know the drill. The new products make short work of the process, though, especially the double-ended Diorblush Light & Contour Stick, €39.
Available in three gel-cream shades, the matte contouring end blends atop foundation very nicely. The strobing tip is not too glittery for daytime wear. This accessible take on an often dramatic look was the brand’s aim.
“The idea of correcting skin using contrast is not new. But nowadays, formulas have evolved tremendously, The products in this Fall collection can be used either to create an ultra glamorous look or as part of the morning routine, “ say Creative and Image Director Peter Philips.
He’s also produced four colour correctors, Fix It 2-in-1 Prime & Conceal, €35, (one each for redness, dark circles, sallow patches and dullness), to even out the rest of the complexion.
Eyes, nails and lips are moving on from last season with a fresh stock of deep purples, browns and berries.
The Dior Skyline 5 Couleurs Eye Palette, €60, in ‘Capital of Light’ has four powder shades printed with the Eiffel Tower’s lattice, if you like the little details that make a collection collectable.
Even if you don’t, the silky, non-flake pigments are very flattering and easy to work with and the fifth shadow, a serum, doubles as liner.
Dior Diorshow Brow Chalk, €24.50, a pigment pen with an angled tip, helps create the illusion of thick brows. Dior Le Vernis, €26, comes in café au lait nude (‘Minimal’) and chocolate (‘Obscure’).
The lips are as central to ‘Skyline’ as they were at Paris Fashion Week in March. Dior Addict Lipstick, €36, in ‘Sophisticated’ topped with Dior Addict Gloss, €30, in ‘Famous’ gets you Kendall Jenner’s look from the show.
Tom Ford Lip Contour Duo
Tom Ford created one of the first— and best— palettes of the contouring trend’s current iteration way back in 2011.
With the launch of the Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate Palette, €68, the designer sought to use symmetry to enhance natural beauty long before the technique went cult.
Enhancing your lip size with colour has been a thing for quite a while, so he is a bit late to the party with this new Lip Contour Duo, €49, but the eight-shade range is so gorgeous I doubt you’ll care.
The double-ended pen features a slim pencil tip for refined definition. The other end is a full-coverage lipstick with hydrating oils and shimmer pigments to create temporary fullness and add dimension.
‘Devil Inside’ red and ‘Throw Me On’ peach are especially pretty. All shades are on counters from September 12th.
MAC X Star Trek Collection
MAC celebrates the women of Star Trek with a colour collection launch that coincides with the franchise’s 50th anniversary.
Commander Deanna Troi, Nyota Uhura, Seven of Nine and (I can scarcely believe this was really a thing) Vina the Orion Slave Girl have inspired 23 makeup products, one fan brush and one shadow brush.
It’s a little out there, as collaborations go, but MAC has already put out a collection inspired by troll dolls this year. Why get back on piste now?
The MAC Lipstick, €20, and Lipglass, €22, come in the most wearable shades. The ‘Khaaannnn!’ red-berry gloss and ‘Llap’ rose-champagne lipstick are lovely.
‘Trip The Light Fantastic’ Powder, €31, a variation on MAC’s Mineralize Skinfinish highlighting powder, comes in ‘Luna Lustre’ sheer rose and ‘Highly Illogical’ luminous coral.
Most of us should also be on board with MAC Superslick Liquid Eyeliner, €23, in ‘On The Hunt’ black and MAC Studio Nail Lacquer, €10, in ‘Enterprise’ silver-chrome.
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