Rachel Marie Walsh gets advice from London Fashion Week artists on how to achieve catwalk-fresh looks.
Sixties’ Pretty Meets Punk at Topshop Unique
Beauty Consultant Hannah Murray created the look for Sunday’s Topshop Unique catwalk show using Topshop Beauty.
“This season’s girl is tough with a lot of attitude, a bold character with a look inspired by the sixties but slightly punk,” she said backstage.
“It’s cool, lived in and a bit unkempt.”
Hannah sponged Air Cushion Skin Perfector, €18, a sheer radiant foundation launching in April, all over each model’s face.
She dabbed Brighten Highlighter Pen in ‘Moonlight,’ €10, mixed with cream from The Concealer Palette, €16, where needed to create a flawless base.
Skin was finished with a flush of colour by applying the Everything Colour Stick in ‘Defiant,’ €13, to the apples of cheeks and blending downwards and outwards with fingers.
Brows were brushed up and thickened using Sculpting Brow Gel, €10.50 (also available from April), for a handsome, boyish result.
The miniature wand coats the hair to define without hard lines.
The graphic black flicks were drawn roughly with Kohl Pencil in Coal, €5, and then over-lined with Liquid Liner in ‘Black Cab,’ €7, for a wet-look eye heavily inspired by the Sixties.
“The flick is elongated rather than delicate to add real edge and character to the look,” said the artist.
Kohl was has been used to mirror the shape on top in a much more lived-in fashion.
She made top and bottom fringe-like with layers of Party Proof Mascara, €13, worked through from the roots.
“There are two lips this season chosen to embrace the character of different girls,” said Hannah.
“A more subtle pale pink shade is created using Lips, €10, in ‘Mercurial’ applied directly from the bullet, whilst the other is a much bolder magenta colour – Lips, €10, in ‘Straight Ace’ – for an eighties, punk feel.” Both shades were layered for a bold finish at the show by applying and blotting repeatedly.
Graphic Eyes at Georgia Hardinge
Backstage at Georgia Hardinge, Sisley makeup artist Tania Greer harmonised with the collection’s clean lines and graphic prints by creating a clear, minimalist face with flashes of vibrant colour.
The bold squared-off line on the eye reflects the fashion’s galactic and technicolor themes.
Tania first prepped the eye area using Sisley’s Eye Contour Mask, €98, which has brightening and smoothing effects.
For a dewy glow, she combined a drop of Black Rose Precious Face Oil, €162, with the Sisleÿa L’Intégral, €360, and follow with the Phyto Teint Éclat Foundation, €89.50, and Phyto Blush Éclat in Mango, €61.
Using the Phyto Eye Twist in ‘Emerald,’ €35, Tania ran the twist along the lash line and then took a square, flat brush and smudged the line from the corner of the eye to the outer edge of the eye, to build on the initial line.
Next, she found her desired finishing point and pulled the product back in towards the corner of the eye, to create the bold, squared off line.
She finished the look with a slither of Phyto Eye Twist in ‘Pearl,’ €35, in the corner of the eyes and a slick of So Curl Mascara in ‘Deep Blue,’ €47.
For a neutral, toned down lip and that wouldn’t distract from the emerald eye, Tania applied Phyto Lip Twist in ‘Litchi,’ €35.
Doll Faces at Sophia Webster
Shoe designer Sophia Webster chose Beetlejuice’s Lydia Deetz as her muse for autumn and Edward Meadham, of the recently-folded label Meadham Kirchoff, dressed the models as a gothic but colourful bridal party to complement their lavish heels.
Benefit Head Makeup Artist Lisa Potter-Dixon made them up like fair-faced dolls, recalling Winona Ryder’s pixie-ish beauty in the 1988 film.
She used Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow! Liquid Foundation, €37, in one shade lighter than the model’s skin tone and mixing it with white face-paint to create a theme-appropriate sheer pallor.
Finger-blending the same foundation on in your colour-match looks prettier still.
For rounder smoky eyes, Lisa layered Hoola Matte Bronzer, €34, onto the lid, slightly over the brow and under the eye down to the top of the cheekbone to create a hollow shape. Repeated layering and blending created depth of colour.
To frame the eye further, she blended Benefit’s Longer Powder Eye Shadow, €22.50, in ‘Quick, Look Busy’ under the lower lash-line and onto the eye lid and buffed to perfection.
Sweep They’re Real Tinted Primer, €25, through your lashes to get a soft and defined finish.
Lisa blended Coralista Blusher, €34, above and slightly under the brow to finish the eyes and add a lighter dimension.
Create a bold eyebrow by drawing hair-like strokes with Brow Zings Eyebrow Shaping Kit, €34, in ‘Deep.’
Add extra volume by brushing Gimme Brow Eyebrow Gel, €25.50, in ‘Medium/Deep’ over the top, away from the hair first, and then back with the hair.
For doll-like lips, Lisa toned down the natural lip colour with a combination of foundation and Boi-ing Concealer, €24.
She custom-blended the shade by mixing concealer in each model’s natural skin tone with Hydra-Smooth Lip Colour, €22, in ‘Air Kiss,’ and then drew soft, rounded heart shape with a lip brush to finish the look.
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