Rachel Marie Walsh shares the best backstage beauty advice from London Fashion Week.
Lux Lisbon at Felder Felder
The German-born, London-based sisters behind Felder Felder did lots of metallic mini-dresses and suits in candy hues for spring.
Continuing that fun, dreamy theme, makeup artist Attracta Courtney created looks inspired by Lux Lisbon, the rebellious teen heroine of Jeffrey Eugenides’ The Virgin Suicides.
“This ‘Lux Beauty’ girl has luminous skin, she’s a doe-eyed beauty sporting a babe-tastic lip colour in orange or red with a hint of iced blue on the eyelid,” she explained. All products for this look are by Bobbi Brown.
Attracta began by prepping the skin with the Extra Illuminating Moisture Balm, €90, which contains luminous particles and creates a smooth base (give this perfumed moisturiser a miss if your skin is oily or sensitive).
Creamy Concealer, €24.50, and Creamy Corrector, €24.50, sorted out the spots and dark shadows that even models get.
The brand’s lightweight Skin Foundation Stick, €37.50, created an even base.
The lips are this look’s real focus and Attracta lined and filled them completely with an Art Stick in Sunset Orange, €26.50, which gives a strong, matte pop of colour.
For more classic faces, she lined and filled the lips with a Lip Pencil in Red, €22.50, and layered the brand’s Creamy Matte Lip Color in Jenna, €26.50.
Lashes were curled but left bare and brows were brushed and set to a subtle sheen with the Natural Brow Shaper in Clear, €23.
To pick up the shine and metallic pastels in the collection, Attracta applied Extra Face Oil, €56, to the upper lids and smoothed Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick in Iced Blue, €30, on top.
Princess Margaret meets Courtney Love at Topshop Unique
Topshop beauty consultant Hannah Murray had girl power on the brain
“Last season the Topshop girl was very pretty, this season she’s tougher with much more attitude.
"This look is quick and effortlessly wearable but definitely a bold statement.
"The inspiration was taken from debauched country parties, think Princess Margaret meets Courtney Love, she cares about her looks, but not that much!”
All products used for this look are by Topshop Beauty.
The face was kept fresh and minimal, with a simple slick of product used to cover any redness.
The Airbrush Primer (available SS16) was applied to the t-zone and the Concealer Palette, €16, added where needed only on blemishes.
Aircushion Skin Perfector (available SS16) was used lightly over any reddened areas to create a very sheer base.
Finally, the Everywhere Stick in Naïve (available SS16) was applied to the apples of cheeks with Vaseline on top of cheekbones for a fresh finish.
For a worn in look, Kajal Kohl Liner, €10, was smudged along top lashes and blended with the finger to create an eye that looks lived-in. Kajal is also applied to the outer corner of the eye along the bottom lashes and smudged.
Topshop’s Party Proof Intense Mascara, €13, is layered onto top and bottom lashes straight from the tube to create a clumpy effect.
When applying mascara to bottom lashes, the mascara was pressed against skin to leave remnants below lashes. Models scrunched their eyes to make sure the look was imperfect.
Finally, Chameleon Glow in Shuffle the Cards, €12, was applied to the centre of eyelids and Vaseline applied all over the lid for texture.
“Functionregalia” at Burberry
The SS16 Burberry Beauty looks took its cue from the brand’s new fashion collection, which creative director Christopher Bailey named “Functionregalia” for its practical, structured pieces and romantic fabrics.
The makeup focussed on satin skin with natural contouring and highlighting.
Eyes were nude but opened wide with subtle kohl and mascara.
Lips were the statement feature, deepened with oxblood lipstick or plumped with a creamy nude-beige.
Burberry’s natural look and statement lips
Backstage, Burberry makeup artistic consultant Wendy Rowe offered a preview of the brand’s SS16 Runway Palette, with its lace-printed illuminating powder for the face.
All other Burberry beauty products used are currently available via boots.ie and burberry.com.
Wendy began with contouring, sweeping the Face Contour Pen, €30, under the cheekbones, jawline, and along the nose.
She finger-blended the tinted cream to a seamless finish. Foundation was brushed on very sparingly and only where needed.
Wendy advises applying the brand’s Fresh Glow Fluid Foundation, €45.50, with a sponge for more coverage.
She used Sheer Concealer, €34, in the lightest shades to highlight where light hits the face. A light pat of Nude Powder, €42, created a satin finish.
For nude, open eyes, Wendy swept the Face Contour Pen along the socket to elongate the eye shape.
For a natural look, Curve Lash Mascara in Chestnut Brown No.02, €32, was applied to the curve of the lashes only.
Eye Colour Silk in Almond No.103, €30, was taken up to the socket line and finger-blended. Effortless Kohl Eyeliner in Stone No.00, €24, across the waterline opened up lower lids.
Statement lips were created using Lip Definer in Oxblood No.14, €19.50, to trace the outline of the lips before filling them in with Lip Velvet in Oxblood No.437, €30.
Or for a signature nude lip, apply two layers of Burberry Kisses in Nude Beige No.01, €33, to give luminosity while allowing lips natural colour to shine through.
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