LEST you think London Fashion Week is just about the clothes; think again.
Often the accompanying histrionics can make equally compelling viewing. Whether it’s Brigitte Nielson working the paps, models taking speed wobbles or blaggers being booted out of the celebrity front row, the runway certainly gets a run for its money.
Regardless, the mettle of our own John Rocha continues to keep the punters enthralled. Inspired by the Grand Tour, and images from Deborah Turbeville’s Past Imperfect, the Hong Kong native’s spring/summer offering boasted a fragile bohemian beauty – an evolution from his more ascetic sensibilities.
Elongated silhouettes sculpted by vintage bias and corsetry played against structured volume; with diaphanous silk crepe de chines and georgettes a counterfoil for modern neoprene and stretch cottons. In keeping with the vagabond theme were ruffled wide-brimmed hats, misplaced boots and cocoon-shaped backpacks – perfect accessories for the peripatetic.
In a similar vein, Birmingham designer Osman parlayed his architectural aesthetic into a celebration of texture and shape. Drawing on ’90s minimalism, the collection boasted a series of key wardrobe staples including asymmetric denim dresses, sharp cut trousers, funnel tunics and lightweight patent leather A-line skirts.
The standalone separates, although modest, astutely curried favour to the current trend for luxe minimalism – a trend that doesn’t look set to go anywhere soon.
Similarly, Betty Jackson’s Land Girls-inspired collection offered utility with a hefty side of chic. Think 1940s silhouettes with a modern sportswear edge in a palette of khaki, tree bark shot with apple green and pink.
Paper-bag shorts, drawstring roll-up trousers and thick cotton knits played against colourful abstract prints from digitalised foliage to colourful birds of paradise.
, Basso & Brooke gave modernist prints an antique edge with hand-written notes from Da Vinci and Balzac etched across minimalist shapes.
Simplicity of form continues its quiet revolution. Watch this space.
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