Restaurant review: Ómós has a bold, visionary concept that is brilliantly executed

The restaurant occupies 4.2 acres, with a 16-room Victorian manor guesthouse and a purpose-built 40 seat restaurant.

Ómós

Abbeyleix, Co. Laois

Our rating: 9.5/10

They nearly killed us, yet every Irish person still loves potatoes. We rightly wax lyrical on the joys of new potatoes, we pine for their arrival, just as the Piedmontese do white truffle season in October. Simply boiled or steamed with a large lump of butter, they transport us back to our childhood dinner tables.

Of course, Irish chefs highlight new potatoes but Cúán Greene at Ómós has elevated this humble ingredient into something truly magical by cooking it with fresh herbs and adding homemade butter made from Jersey cows farmed in Co Kildare. The dish is so good that, for me, it deserves the same reverence as “truffe sous le cendre” at Auberge de L’Ill in Alsace ,where they coat a
Périgord truffle in goose foie gras then bake it in puff pastry.

Heritage grain brad and hand-whipped Jersey butter at Ómós

Ómós opened just a few weeks ago on the grounds of the estate owned by John Collison (of Stripe), formerly owned by Viscount de Vesci, who built Abbeyleix in the 18th century. Abbeyleix is one of the grandest towns in Ireland and is already a culinary destination thanks to the Mueller & O’Connell bakery, a fine local restaurant in Bramley (reviewed here in April) and, of course, Morrissey’s Pub which dates from 1775; FYI Morrissey’s are also opening a restaurant.

Ómós was created by executive chef Cúán Greene with head chef Matthew Smith and other talents. Greene spent time in Copenhagen’s Noma and Geranium and was head chef in Bastible; I gave a rare 9.5/10 in 2019. You will notice the same rating here.

Chef and co-owner Cúán Greene in the kitchen at Ómós 

Occupying 4.2 acres, there is a 16-room Victorian manor guesthouse and a purpose-built 40 seat restaurant. Ómós means respect and the name works: the ingredients are mostly local and the restaurant fits neatly into the landscape, respecting its surroundings. The dining room has a Nordic simplicity with a plain brick floor, blonde wood, and the chairs were all made from the one tree. On the walls are judiciously placed woven wall hangings and a beautiful báinín jacket that belonged to Greene’s grandfather, the celebrated wildlife filmmaker, Éamon de Buitléar. The jacket is the inspiration for the staff uniforms.

Diners share the space with a busy open kitchen which somehow exudes a zen calmness, adding to the atmosphere. The tasting menu (the only option) costs €175 per person, which is not cheap but is comparable to what you would pay for a similar meal in many of our fine dining restaurants, particularly if they have been lauded by that famous red book.

Ómós in Abbeyleix is tucked into a low-slung building beside the guesthouse 

I confess I don’t always look forward to tasting menus. I am still haunted by one that began with a marigold petal with a blob of something on it and continued in that vein. Thankfully, the first course at Ómós was substantial, a nutty, crumbly pastry tart filled with tangy-sweet dehydrated tomatoes and strawberries plus an onion lyonnaise for sweetness and base notes provided by anchovy. A bold beginning.

Next came an umami-rich shiitake jelly topped with vibrant broad beans plus creamy, nutty pumpkin seed milk. A properly articulate dish, the savoury, earthy, creamy notes bouncing around with a bright, grassy, vanilla woodruff oil lingering on the finish. Sashimi of dry-aged textured hamachi had a brisk magnolia flower and hibiscus dipping sauce, and a chunk of rhubarb provided zingy juices.

We were settled into the rhythm nicely now, expecting more creative takes on classic ingredients but the next course gave us a proper jolt and brought broad smiles to our faces. An Irish salad, or “mammy salad” as my guest dubbed it: cured ham from Fermanagh, salad leaves, raspberries, courgettes, pickled onions, a tamago tofu custard and a dressing with distinct flavour nods to Heinz salad cream. It’s perfect.

Space is running low, so brief mention of a snail dumpling with gorgeous liquid garlic butter, then some line caught mackerel with sea buckthorn and a spiky kumquat kosho to cut through the richness. Next, that extraordinary steamed Irish Gold potato, just one perfect specimen topped with luscious butter. Flame-grilled 55-day-aged Wexford Hereford beef showcased just how good Irish beef can taste and we welcomed the nutty heritage grain bread for moping up juices.

The drinks list is focused on sustainable and organic wines and is a solid selection complemented by Irish beers, ciders, and spirits. We chose a fruity Dom Sérol Loire Gamay, a B&D Schmitt Sylvaner from Alsace, and a De Figuiere Provence Rosé, all worked well.

For dessert, a sea buckthorn and strawberry parfait sweetened with honey that brilliantly mimicked an Arbutus strawberry tree fruit (but tasted much better). Raw-milk ice cream came with intensely flavoured pressed cherry and strawberries, and finally a savoury sweet-bitter chocolate and seaweed “After-Eight” finished the meal. Phew.

Ómós is a visionary concept, brilliantly executed. The food thrilled, with wit, charm, and most of all flavour and articulacy. It’s a triumph.

• Dinner for two with three glasses of wine, €433
• omos.co