Restaurant review: Old school classics to bank on at Díon Rooftop Restaurant and Bar in Dublin
Díon is not named for the 1988 Eurovision winner nor Dion Dublin of Cambridge United, but is of course ‘roof’ as Gaelige.
Sam Stephenson was once the most hated man in Ireland, certainly Dublin His crimes include the replacement of maybe the finest Georgian thoroughfare in Europe with the disgracefully ugly ESB HQ on Fitzwilliam St., and the Civic Offices on Wood Quay plonked on a hugely important Viking archeological site.
Others would point to the brutalist Central Bank building on Dame St. which pays zero heed to its surroundings; “Look at ME!” the building screams like a drag queen standing naked except for a few sequins in the middle of Times Square.
Well we are stuck with it now, and finally with the opening of Díon we can be like Guy de Maupassant who, legend has it, ate lunch at the Eiffel tower every day. It was the only place in Paris where he didn’t have to look at it.
Díon is not named for the 1988 Eurovision winner nor Dion Dublin of Cambridge United, but is of course ‘roof’ as Gaelige. To enter the restaurant you take a lift to the 10th floor from an (easy to miss) entrance at the base of the building. Once in, the main space with its double-height glass ceiling the 360 degree view really is spectacular.
The other rooftop views in Dublin (e.g. The Leinster, Layla’s, Gravity Bar) have nothing on it because this is the heart of the city overlooking the stunning bank buildings of Dame Street, the splendor of Trinity, the Liffey and the Quays, and of course onto Temple Bar (trust me, it looks a hell of a lot better than at street level).
The furnishings have a strong nod towards mid-century modern in keeping with the building, there are two bar areas, private dining rooms and it's open every day from 8am to 10pm.
A project on this scale was always going to overrun and when I visited a few days after the opening there were a few bare wires and unfinished bits to be spotted (but not in the main dining room).
We started with cocktails because it is that kind of space. The bespoke menu was not ready but we were happy with classics, a minty fresh mojito and a dry Manhattan; I think I tasted Punt e Mes vermouth in the Manhattan, if so I approve.
Sticking with drinks, the wine list is ultra traditional and heavy on France, expense account customers can decide between the five first growth Bordeaux on offer, priced €808-2125. I’d love to see more Spanish and regional wines, not to mention a pet-nat, skin contact or natural wine or two. Prices are also punchy it has to be said, but I was happy enough to find the excellent floral tangy Suavia Soave for €54.
The all-day menu is as old-school as the wine list with dishes I haven’t seen in years such as truffled vol-au-vont and duck à l’orange. We began with a half-dozen Kelly’s oysters (€21) served au naturel; they were grand, but some commis chef needs a reprimand as the mignonette sauce had chunks of shallots rather than brunoise/minced, no pepper or salt, and a very poor quality, overly acidic vinegar.
Shitake mushrooms (€10) in a ‘salt and vinegar tempura’ batter were better, but I would like to see a lighter touch with the tempura, again something easily fixed.
We fared much better with our starters, the star of the show being deep fried globe artichoke (€14), this version served Catalan style with a nutty flavourful romesco sauce, deep-fried sage leaves and sweet tomatoes, a 9/10 or higher.
I also loved my Díon prawn cocktail (€17.50), served in a very fancy glass bowl that looked like a spider crab, a correctly made Marie-Rose sauce and a good quantity of chunky warm water king prawns plus a bonus Dublin Bay Prawn on top. Fine quality nutty brown bread and salted butter on the side made the dish even better.
For mains, we decided to order the crowd pleasers (rather than, say wild Dover sole). My fish and chips (€23) had a super-crispy batter, a tangy tasty tartar sauce and good chunky chips. Golden fried chicken Milanese (€24) with a parmesan crumbed coating was tender and flavourful with bonus fried capers.
For dessert we shared pistachio ice cream craquelin profiteroles topped with warm chocolate sauce, tasty and traditional although perhaps a darker chocolate flavour would be preferable.
Our (Brazilian) waiter was flirty, efficient and charming and we had fun. Yes, Díon has snagging to do and some kinks to be worked out in the kitchen but I have confidence chef Neil Mulholland will sort them. Anyone complaining about Díon opening early to cheer up Dubliner’s Christmases is simply a grinch.
Dinner for two with cocktails and wine cost €219
Visit the website here.
