Restaurant review: This space has somehow maintained a secretive vibe over the years
We felt we were in safe hands throughout the meal at One Pico
8/10
Longevity in the restaurant world is a rare thing, especially in fine dining. Restaurants that survive more than 10 years are uncommon, those lasting a couple of decades are even rarer.
One Pico first opened in 1997 by chef Eamon O’Reilly, moving to its present location in the early 2000s (to what was formerly the celebrity-infested Polo One). Despite being a few steps away from Dáil Éireann and Grafton St, the space has somehow always maintained a secretive vibe.
O’Reilly is still keeping an eye on things but these days the head chef is Zhan Sergejev — who joined in 2022 having worked in l’Écrivain under Derry Clarke. One Pico feels spacious and not overly formal, with a polished wood floor, comfortable seating, and quality art on the wall.
Given that we had arrived before 6pm, we availed of the pre-theatre menu which costs a very reasonable €60 per person, the full six course menu costs €98 per person, with a shorter menu available for €78.
As this was proper old school fine dining, we began with fluffy crusty baguette and good brown bread plus two pretty canapé spheres. Of the two the Cáis na Tire gougère was the easy winner thanks to the lactic intensity of that wonderful cheese, a ‘black truffle arancini’ had some luxurious touches but was overshadowed by the gougère.
Jerusalem artichoke panna cotta had intense nutty artichoke flavours and a delightful texture. Walnut crumbs, artichoke caramel flavours, sage leaf, and crisp slices of fried artichoke added extra complexity and layers, and a hint of white miso added depth.
Seared foie gras meanwhile was beautifully cooked with a crisp caramelised exterior and melting flesh underneath. Cubes of umeboshi added fruity contrast to lift and cut the richness of the foie, and blobs of lush foie gras parfait atop crisp pain épice rounded out the starter perfectly.
Following two brilliant starters, our two main courses were always going to struggle to compete.
Lacquered pork fillet had been cooked sous-vide to retain a soft pink centre and delicate flavours, and was then coated in Alsace bacon and crisped. This worked; I liked the subtle flavours and the velvety texture, but no chef has yet convinced me that sous-vide is better than pan fried so my favourite part of the course was the cube of luscious slow braised belly. The dominant flavour on the plate was a rich black garlic emulsion that veered towards steak sauce such was the umami hit (no bad thing). This sauce was useful for dipping the pork into, but in the end, it rather overwhelmed rather than enhanced.
Butter roasted monkfish with cauliflower purée, vanilla, Vaudovan curry, and roast cauliflower sounded gorgeous but once again the Vadouvan curry sauce overwhelmed and my guest felt the elements did not quite knit together cohesively. As I’ve said before, I wish classically-trained chefs would stop looking to France for curry sauce when there is all of Asia to explore.
One Pico’s extensive wine list is a reason to visit on its own, with 30 wines offered by the glass including Château Latour 2009 for €868 for a 150ml pour. Prices start at €43, and while classic regions of France are strongly represented, there are also excellent choices from Spain, Australia, and Italy. I chose Gabo de Xil Godello (€58) made by famed producer Telmo Rodriguez in Valdeorras in Galicia, one of the wine regions of the moment; textured and complex, and a fine match for the foie gras, cod, and pork.
Passion fruit and yuzu soufflé had risen a full inch above its rim and was properly fluffy and flavourful, the sweet-sour passion fruit flavours mingling nicely with the yuzu and a milky sorbet. A bonus slosh of Grand Marnier added by our sommelier was a welcome addition.
My Valrhona ‘abinao’ chocolate tart meanwhile was almost liquid in texture with a fine pastry base. Best of all, a scoop of caper ice cream and some chunks of caper and honey sponge cake. I confess I did not know caper ice-cream was a thing; it is, and it is glorious. This was a proper creamy ice cream cut through with tangy, briny, herbal notes from the capers that both complemented and contrasted with the bitter notes in the dark chocolate. A splash of Mozart chocolate liqueur wasn’t needed, but was welcome all the same. Petit fours of lightly crunchy rhubarb-cream macaroons and salted caramel truffles were the kitchen’s final flourish, and yet more reasons to praise the pastry chef.
One Pico minded us well, the front of house team is expertly led by Andrew Scott. With Arnaud Legat as head sommelier, we felt we were in safe hands throughout the meal.
This is old school fine dining and we left with smiles on our faces.
- 5 Molesworth Place, Dublin 2
- Dinner for two with wine: €184
- onepico.com
