Restaurant review: I can’t think of a better spot for a romantic meal on Valentine’s Day
Pearl Brasserie’s cosy booths are perfect for small groups.
Dining out with someone you love (or even someone you just ‘quite like’) is surely one of life’s great pleasures. Add in fine food, decent wine, an inviting room and polished service and you have the perfect restaurant.
Pearl Brasserie just might be that restaurant. French chef Sebastien Masi and his wife Kirsten first opened the doors in December 2000, when they were both 25, so this year will mark their 25th year in business, no mean feat.
Pearl is in a basement opposite Government Buildings and they have turned what could be a disadvantage into an asset thanks to clever lighting, quality paintings and furnishings, and warm colours including a large tank filled with colourful, lively fish. Besides the dining rooms there are booths and nooks to add to the romance of the space and make you feel cossetted. I can’t think of a better spot for a romantic meal, and don’t forget that Valentine’s Day is fast approaching.
We visited on a Tuesday following a trip to see the annual Turner Exhibition in the National Gallery, which is just a walk away. While not full, there were enough patrons on the evening to create an atmospheric hum of happy people sounds, impressive for a Tuesday in January.
Pearl offers a ‘Surprise Tasting Menu’ at €99 per person, but we were happy to stick with the à la carte, where starters ranged from €16 to €25 and mains from €27 to €45.
Crunchy sourdough baguette, served with fine quality butter began the meal, just as it should. The mid-meal ‘bread course’ was fun when we encountered it first, but I think we are done with it now.
For her starter, the engineer chose that day’s special of king scallops (€22) with sweet carrots and a carrot and yuzu purée, not a combination I have ever encountered before but one that worked well. Three large scallops had been correctly cooked, caramelised outside and tender inside, and the sweet tangy carrot knitted in nicely.
My fresh duck foie gras sat on a slice of toasted brioche, and had been nicely caramelised on the outside but remained luxuriously buttery soft inside. The earthy, sweet-savoury foie gras flavours were offset by a lightly sweet cinnamon and apple compote and an almond gel. I took up the option of a small glass of monbazillac wine (€9.50) on the side and it worked brilliantly, cutting through the fat but also adding honey and lemon flavours.
For mains, the engineer went for halibut (€38), expertly cooked and with a light creamy prosecco sauce and blobs of black garlic sauce to add a spiky tang. Slices of confit Jerusalem artichoke added texture and earthy nutty accents while a crisp chicken skin ‘galette’ added crunch.
Venison loin (€42) was served pink with a rich dark jus that could have overwhelmed but was tempered by an earthy sweet cauliflower purée and ripe blackberries and a croquette of slow cooked venison shoulder, varying the textures on the plate nicely. In summary, a very well judged winter dish.
On the side, we opted for French fries (€6), which were as thin and crisp as you could hope for. Given the season I would have liked the ‘truffled mash’ but our waiter told us that truffle oil was an ingredient and there I will not venture, I find truffle oil a harsh and obtrusive ingredient that dominates everything it touches.
The wine list is a good size and primarily French, but not exclusively so. I selected the Pierre Vessigaud ‘Saint Amour’ beaujolais cru (€60), light enough for the fish and rich enough for the venison, with ripe plum and black cherry flavours. A good wine for a date, I should add, given its name.
The engineer’s crème brûlée was as perfect a specimen of this classic as I think I’ve encountered. Rich vanilla custard topped with a thin layer of artfully caramelised sugar — a bargain at €8. My pistachio financier (€14) was fluffy and light and topped with a buttery, nutty pistachio cream and (best of all) a bitter sweet Amerena cherry liqueur sorbet.
Service on the night was impeccable, attentive and informative, but not overbearing or intrusive. We loved our meal and yes, we spent a little more than intended by ordering some of the more expensive dishes like foie gras, but this last was an indulgent, classically French starter perfectly executed.
Like the meal in general, it warmed my heart as much as it thrilled my palate. Pearl is an appropriate name
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Dinner for two with starters, mains, sides and desserts, plus a bottle and a glass of wine, cost €225.50.
20 Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2
Tel: 01-6613572
Monday-Tuesday: 5.30-9pm
Wednesday-Friday: 12-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm
Saturday: 5.30 - 9.30pm
