Restaurant review: Cork's Bayou is a culinary New Orleans carnival, right on MacCurtain Street
The interior of Bayou, Cork. Pic: Larry Cummins
Don’t you simply love MacCurtain Street? I struggle to think of a more diverse (and fun) street anywhere in the country.
I had forty minutes to kill before lunch in Bayou so I spent that time peering at the beautiful clocks in Stokes' window, and then at the jewellery and watches in Cash Connectors, before nipping into Unbound on Bridge St. to look at Kaweco and Lamy pens.
I still had time, so spent the rest of it in 33 RPM browsing the jazz section.
Record stores like 33RPM are a dying breed and with Louisiana in my head I was hoping to find some New Orleans Jazz.
There were indeed some old school Dixieland records and a Jon Batiste album, but in the end I settled for Kamasi Washington’s latest album – I’m playing it as I write this.
Bayou is located in the old City Grill space and promises ‘Southern Comfort Food” with a strong Louisiana influence evident on the menu (notice also the fleur-de-lis on Bayou’s exterior sign, the symbol of New Orleans).
The room is simply laid out with, varnished floorboards and wood panelling, but do notice the pretty tiling at the entrance and remember to look up at the gorgeous ceiling.
The couple behind Bayou are Josh and Kate Crawford, Kate is originally from Arkansas and Josh is Cork ‘comfort-food’ royalty, his grandfather having opened KC’s in Douglas in 1958.
Sourcing is as Irish as possible with meats from Bresnan’s in Douglas, coffee from Stone Valley in Clonakilty and they even found an Irish supplier of andouille sausage.
Bayou’s menu has a mix of classic southern dishes such as hush puppies, glazed ham and biscuits but Cajun-Creole is the main focus – chicken and andouille gumbo, jambalaya, and of course po’boys and muffelettas, two of the world’s greatest sandwiches.
My guest was my former editor, Caroline Delaney of this parish, and lunch was the least I owed her thanks to the trauma she's endured during the years she edited my copy.
Caroline opted for the veggie po’boy while I felt I had to try the fried chicken breakfast special (€13.50) which I believe is available all day.
My two fried chicken thighs had a crisp coating with a light but noticeable spice (sourced from Mr. Bells in the English Market), the meat was juicy and succulent.
A drizzle of hot honey added a touch of heat and sweetness while the refreshing watermelon and mint salad was the perfect foil (how did I not know about this combination?).
Good as this combination was the biscuits were even better – buttery, savoury and complex – reason enough to visit Bayou on their own.
The po’boy sandwich is at its best when filled with fried oysters or shrimp but if you have to go veggie Bayou has you sorted.
Inside the good quality crusty French bread was fried potato and okra in a crisp cornmeal batter plus rocket and a tangy ranch dressing – the combination worked.
On the side from the Specials blackboard was a nicely executed mac and cheese made with cheddar and Swiss cheese and topped with crunchy breadcrumbs.
The contrast between the creamy cheesy mac and crisp breadcrumbs was perfect, the combination of flavours lingering happily in both our our memories a week later.
Bayou does not have a drinks licence but they are happy for customers to bring in bottles purchased in MacCurtain Wine Cellar (MWC) next door (or No. 21 at the end of the street), with no corkage applied.
Josh told me he is hoping to have a collab with MWC soon so stay tuned. In the absence of wine my guest chose a can of Hi-Five black tea and ginger ice tea and I had a tangy refreshing bottle of cult Fritz-Kola from Hamburg made with actual kola nuts.
For dessert it had to be pecan pie (€3.75) which was pleasingly nutty and sweet with crisp pastry, while my fresh made fried beignets (€3.90) had their traditional topping of powdered sugar, just as I remember from my last visit to the Café du Monde on Decatur Street in New Orleans.
These were a little drier than the ones in my memory but washed down well with a proper cup of filter coffee.
MacCurtain St. is already a brilliant food destination and Bayou is a fine addition.
I’m looking forward to returning to try the jambalaya or maybe a shrimp po’boy, I might even convince them to add a fried oyster version.
8/10
9/10
8/10
9/10
- Bayou
- 8 MacCurtain Street, Victorian Quarter, Cork
- Tel: 021 245 5740
- Instagram: @bayou_cork
- Open: Tue-Wed: 12pm - 3pm; Thur-Sat: - 10am - 3pm
- The bill: Lunch for two including two mains, two desserts, two soft drinks and two coffees cost €40.10
