It might be called ‘London Fashion Week’, but in reality, the fashion is only half of it.
Huge amounts of thought and effort are also put into the beauty looks of every runway show, and rightfully so – an elaborate outfit would look unfinished with nothing on your face.
Regardless whether it’s a bold, geometric look or more of a ‘no make-up make-up’ vibe, a lot of backstage work goes into what the models look like; beauty decisions can make or break a show.
LFW has largely wrapped up now, with all of the major designers having sent their collections down the runway.
So what were the boldest make-up trends to come out of the long weekend?
Most of us struggle with finding the perfect shade of red or pink lipstick, and wouldn’t even dream of attempting an inky black lip. Yet designers at LFW made a strong case for going goth.
Molly Goddard was one of them, with the harshness of a black lip being the perfect foil to her super feminine and romantic designs.
A black lip was also front and centre at Marques’Almeida’s show.
According to the MAC make-up artist backstage, Terry Barber, the key to nailing this look is to make the lip as glossy as possible, and to avoid heavy eye make-up.
Instead, light yellows or pinks around your eye will keep this look fresh and modern.
From black lips to black eyes: Another major trend were eyes ringed in heavy kohl. This isn’t the most delicate of make-up looks – which is good news if you don’t have a steady enough hand to pull off the perfect cat-eye.
Inspired by cults, Ashish’s show featured soft Sixties-style designs, with stand-out black eyeliner all around the eyes.
Halpern also adopted heavy black eye make-up, but to a different effect. Instead of smudgy, heavily ringed eyes, make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench focused just on the upper lid.
She created more of a disco vibe by adding sparkles on top of the black rounded eye make-up, a shape that echoed vintage sunglasses.
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‘6am #FestivalGirl, #LivedInLovedIn’✨My look for @houseofholland #SS20 #LFW #FashionShow 💜Used #MAC #StudioFixFoundationStick for the base then layered colours from the #ItsDesigner #ArtLibrary #EyeshadowPalette over #MACPro #Chromaline with #PurpleHologramGlitter pressed on top💜Hair by @adamreedhair & modelled by the beautiful @ybingbing_ ⭐️What do you think? #DiscoDavidBowie?🙌Photo by @voguebrasil 🥰#MACBackstage #MACFWArfist #MACSeniorArtist #LondonFashionWeek #GlitterMakeup #MakeupInspiration #HouseOfHolland #SS2020 @macpro @maccosmetics @maccosmeticsuk
Not every designer tapped into their goth sensibilities – in fact, some were going in the complete opposite direction.
The beauty look from the House Of Holland show was described as “lived-in loved-in” – basically the kind of make-up a raver girl would party in for the whole night: Think neon colours, glitter eyeshadow, and the nails to match.
Mark Fast’s interpretation of raver eyeshadow was a bit more subdued, featuring less glitter, more shine.
The colours were still bright, but you could wear the look to dinner, not just a 5am rave.
There were definitely more shows this season without a distinct make-up look.
Recently, much of the beauty industry’s attentions have shifted towards skincare, and creating dewy, glowy skin instead of piling on make-up.
Many of the runway looks reflected this – whether it was Burberry, Preen or Christopher Kane, the real beauty statement was having perfect skin so enviably glass-like it makes you want to immediately buy a jade roller.
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Wow ! All I can say is THANK YOU ❤️ @kegrand @stephenjonesmillinery @bitton @fransummers love ya fran for wearing this lol!! @mandilennard @establishmentny @mirandajoyce @sydhayeshair @joshwoodcolour @ginashoesofficial @greg___harper @blonsteinproductions @britishfashioncouncil #newgen
This year actor Lucy Boynton has made a name for herself on the red carpet with her geometric make-up looks, which often involve black lines and pointy shapes over her eyes.
This trend seems to have made it to LFW – more specifically, Matty Bovan’s show. Bovan’s eclectic, futuristic clothes were complemented by stark black lines drawn across the eye and a smudge of silver on the inside.
The effect was made even eerier by some of the models wearing giant magnifying glasses as headgear – which at least gave us a good look at the eye make-up.
It was a bold – and welcome – antidote to the ‘no make-up make-up’ look.
- Press Association