Restaurant review: Table 45 is a Dublin home away from South American home

Table 45, Hogan Place Dublin 2. Photograph Moya Nolan

Table 45, Dublin 2

Our rating: 8/10

The traditional Irish pub is in trouble, more close every year, notably in rural towns but Dublin has also not been immune. 

One couple in Dublin, Dan Kavanagh and his Chilean-born husband Dan Rivera heard the pub underneath their apartment was closing and decided to take it on themselves; the result is Table 45, a lively South American/Spanish-themed tapas bar.

On their website the Dans are clear that this is not just a pub but a third space for their community, somewhere other than work or home; dogs are welcome and so is everybody else, Table 45 is “an extension of our own home”.

Hogan Place is between Fenian Street and Grand Canal St Lr, just around the corner from Holles St. so right in the heart of the Dublin city, yet it still somehow feels like a secret space.

One of the Dans is a designer and it shows in the details. The space is light-filled but atmospheric with stained wooden floors, good art, comfortable furnishing, and bare brick walls on one side which adds a functional charm to the space.

We felt it was our duty to begin with cocktails as their fame has spread. 

The Engineer’s Paloma (€14) was zingy and fresh with the tequila, grapefruit, and lime in harmony, while my Pisco Sour (€14) was even better, balanced and moreish. 

(Pisco, in case you are unaware, is an unaged brandy made from distilled wine claimed by both Peru and Chile as their national drink.)

The tapas menu has a Latin American focus (ceviche, tortillas etc) but also familiar Spanish classics and good vegetarian options.

We began with toasted sourdough with pebre (€7), the traditional Chilean salsa of onion, green pepper, tomato, garlic, parsley and white vinegar; zingy, tangy, and fresh and surprisingly good on the crusty, nutty sourdough.

We thought we had chosen well but then the sopaipillas (€8) arrived, golden discs of fried pastry made with flour, butter, salt and squash; light, crispy, packed with flavour and making the sourdough seem rather dull by comparison. 

On the side was some more pebre but also an avocado purée and an excellent honey and wholegrain mustard dip, all fine spreads for the sopaipillas.

Next time I’m ordering two portions and skipping the sourdough.

A duo of fish tacos (€10) were also pleasingly flavour packed: Pan-fried haddock with pickled onion, smoked sweetcorn kernels, and a Madras curry-flavoured aioli on soft corn tortillas. 

The madras flavour jarred a little at first but in the end I decided it worked, cutting through and lifting the flavours.

Of course, being Irish we ordered the patatas bravas (€9), crispy cubes of golden fried potatoes and a properly punchy bravos sauce.

Black pudding and chickpeas (€10) was (likely) Clonakilty Pudding with sultanas, paprika, and garlic oil, another fine spread for both the sourdough and sopaipillas.

Jamon croquetas (€12) had the correct crispy exterior and an umami rich interior, richer and a little denser than is typical but with all the classic flavours present and correct.

Empanadas (€13) filled with minced beef, olives, and boiled egg were also pitch-perfect, meaty and rich and with bonus pebre on the side.

Table 45 has a short but decently chosen wine list wines from Spain and Chile and fair prices including some options under €40. 

Laderes de Romeo Garnacha Tintorera (€9) from Jumilla in Eastern Spain was darkly fruity and ripe while a glass of Eco Pinot Noir (€9.50) from Chile was floral and fruity and a particularly good match for the croquetas. 

The beer and cider list includes craft producers. My only gripe was that I’d also love to see a dry sherry or two on the list.

For dessert, our waiter apologised for the lack of churros which were taken off for the summer (surely every day of the year is a day for churros?). They will be back soon, he assured us.

We were not too phased as the dulce de leche mousse (€9) more than compensated.

Caramelised banana in a coupe glass was topped with a lush, rich, milky-caramel flavoured mousse.

Torta Amor was layers of thin light flaky pastry filled with custard, berry compote, and dulce de leche (of course), the flavours and textures bouncing nicely off each other, we scarfed it all.

On the Sunday afternoon we visited there were lots of locals and family groups including a (well-behaved) dog.

Colombian, Chilean, and Cuban musicon the Tannoy added to the jollity of the space and live (Latin) music had just begun as we left.

Table 45 really is that fun pub/restaurant that everyone should have in their neighbourhood, a welcoming joyful place, long may they thrive.

• Table 45 Tapas Bar
• 45 Hogan Place, Dublin 2
• Table45.ie
• Dinner for two with several tapas plus wine and two cocktails cost €151.50
• 8/10