Saturday, November 7, 2009 Previous editions
Saturday, January 31, 2009
RECESSION. What recession? It seems "Le Crunch" was nowhere to be seen at Paris Fashion Week’s SS09 Haute Couture shows.
Despite fewer models, celebrities and cork popping, the untrammelled opulence of the collections proved style is always "in" even if the economy seems on its way "out".
The proceedings kicked off with John Galliano’s outré Christian Dior show. Inspired by Flemish painters, the collection boasted architectural silk dresses and demi jackets in paint box corals and blues.
Although Dior’s 1940s New Look was referenced throughout the collection, Galliano still held true to his love for modern symmetry in bold pleats and creases. In total contrast, Armani Privé was a celebration of Eastern Promise with a cavalcade of 62 "samurai" looks. Referencing Puccini’s three-act opera Turandot, Giorgio’s girls sported strong Pagoda-style shoulders, winged cuff trousers, spiked skirt hems and heels based on Chinese wood carvings in a high lacquer palette of reds and purples.
Ubiquitous front-rower, Kanye West, was treated again to the popular oriental vibe at Elie Saab show which also drew celebs Dita Von Teese and Mischa Barton. The Lebanese designer, known for her uber-sexy red carpet creations, wowed the crowds with a melange of Japanese-style kimono wraps and rhinestone-encrusted princess gowns.
Much like Dior, asymmetry took centre stage with origami folds and pleats made dainty by diaphanous chiffons and breathy shades of pastel. Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci similarly tapped into the spirit of romance with a petal-strewn runway featuring dreamy nude-to -pink sheath dresses — a far cry from the doom and gloom of the outside world.
In total contrast was Chanel’s "ice queen" motif — a veritable homage to the stark clean lines of the 60s. Featuring a selection of white A-line cocktail dresses, matchstick trousers and box jackets, the made-to -measure collection glistened with hand worked beading and jewels; winning favour with new Bond girl — Olga Kurylenko.
In the same vein, Valentino’s first collection under the design team Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Pablo looked to the swinging era for style cues. Short jewel dress coats and even shorter embellished minis bedecked in oversized pleats and bows demonstrated cheeky chic and deservedly won a standing ovation.
Overall kudos however belongs to France’s own Jean Paul Gaultier whose ode to the matador bought a 1930s Spanish flavour to the catwalk. Razor-sharp tuxedo jacket, lace toreador trousers, hooped skirts and dresses suspended on straps of filigree combined to create his strongest couture show yet. It was like the 80s all over again when Linda, Christy, Naomi and Claudia ruled the runway. Maybe "Le Crunch" is forcing fashion to be fun once more. Mais, oui?
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