It's all-out fashion war on the catwalks of London
Monday, February 18, 2013
The battle between high street and high-end played out at London Fashion Week, with John Rocha and Mulberry vying for catwalk dominance against Whistles, Topshop Unique, and Rihanna for River Island, reports the Irish Examiner's Annmarie O’Connor.
By Annmarie O’Connor
John Rocha proved his technical nous in a collection inspired by the winter bright landscapes of Wicklow and the palettes in the work of Gary Hulme.
Pea green, fluro pink, and flame red added a third dimension to trapeze and bell silhouettes crafted in rugged felts, tweed, mohair, latex glazed lace, and Rocha’s signature georgettes and chiffons.
Oversized, cape, and waist-cinched coats made for proportionally playful outerwear; while tailored jumpsuits and long-sleeve dresses spoke of quiet austerity.
The frock proved the ultimate scene-stealer, with a floral embellished bell dress, styled with a tulle draped headdress and patent Mary Jane wedges, winning over a packed house.
Mulberry consolidated its kingpin status with a playfully practical collection. Emma Hill’s creative directorship stayed true to the brand ethos of merging the countryside with city cool, a feat not lost on its legions of fans.
Traditional English check reinterpreted in oversized knits and a wow-worthy sequin ‘Soft Bell’ dress will no doubt be on the wish list of every fashion editor next season.
Still trending is fashion’s love affair with layering. This time expect skater skirts teamed with capri pants and overcoats.
Without a doubt, Rihanna’s debut line for River Island proved the hottest ticket in town, with a celebrity headcount including supermodels Tyson Beckford and Cara Delevigne, and Strictly Come Dancing champ Louis Smith.
The R&B singer’s 90s girly grunge edge proved a fitting match for the collaboration and the brand’s increasingly youth market appeal.
Satin dresses, jersey skirts, and dresses with dangerously thigh-high splits, tensile twill parkas, crop tops, T-shirts, fine gauge knits, jumpsuits, varsity jackets, barely there sandals, ankle boots, rucksacks, and snapback caps comprise the spring/ summer collection.
Key details include T-shirt and dress knotting and Rihanna’s relaxed shirt-tied waist signature.
The collection hits the shops from Mar 5 with prices from €25.
Another fashion week first was the presence of Whistles on the schedule. The mid-market brand has experienced a timely renaissance under the creative vision of former Topshop titan Jane Shepherdson.
For autumn/winter ’13, the offering is modern and sleek with utility overtones and subtle naval influences. Think cable and waffle knit sweaters paired with polished leather skirts; streamlined shifts embossed with moc croc, louche cocoon coats, and a London It Girl essential — the leather sweatshirt.
Over at the Tate Modern, Topshop Unique threw down a stylish gauntlet to a star-studded crowd including Pixie Geldof, Olivia Palermo, and fashion blogger ‘The Sartorialist’.
The 90s remained the star era, this time with a Brit Pop twist as models Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn led the catwalk cavalcade in styles that referenced “real England”.
Opposites attracted as matte was paired with gloss, shimmering sequins offset with fuzzy textures, and raw edges placed beside bonded fabrics.
Prints, based on traditional British carpets and Victorian pub wallpapers, were digitised, super-sized, and fused onto knits and bonded cloths.
Silhouettes held similar larger-than-life status, as did clutches, chain handle bags, and heeled snake print panelled Chelsea boots. A dissonant take on a decade compared to Rihanna for River Island; perhaps one geared towards a slightly older demographic.
From young guns to big guns, Peter Pilotto, Erdem, and Christopher Kane take to the tents today. It’s an all-out fashion war.
Westwood keeps characteristic flair
Fashion Week regulars Peaches Geldof and Jodie Kidd sang the praises of Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label collection after another spectacular show.
“I thought it was brilliant and I just loved the combination of the colours, the tights, the clothes, the shoes, the bags, the tailoring,” said Kidd.
“I just wanted absolutely every single piece, which is very rare for me. I just loved this collection. I thought it was fabulous.”
The statuesque blonde said while it may have been less dramatic than the Westwood designs of previous years, the flair was still there and that it was important to remember the evolving nature of fashion.
“There were bits in there — you know, like the sequinned pants. But, you know, when I used to do Vivienne it used to be boobs and great big dresses and things like that.
“But, you know, fashion moves, it evolves. Designers have to go with it and I think she’s really nailed it.”
Before the show, Geldof said she was expecting it to be “slightly mental”, but said that is “the charm of Westwood”.
She said of Westwood’s style: “It’s really haphazard and sort of all over the place, which I think is what Vivienne’s mindset is like, and I really like that the clothes are such a reflection of her and her personality, and it’s really playful and fun.”
Jurors in the trial of two former personal assistants accused of defrauding Nigella Lawson and Charles Saatchi have been warned to ignore comments made by British Prime Minister David Cameron about the celebrity cook.
The judge in the trial of two former personal assistants accused of defrauding Nigella Lawson and Charles Saatchi has issued a rebuke to UK Prime Minister David Cameron over comments he made about the celebrity chef, urging the jury to reach its verdicts on the evidence alone.
A six-year-old Chinese boy whose eyes were gouged out in an attack more than three months ago was discharged from a hospital in the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen yesterday where he was successfully fitted with prosthetic eyes.
There has been a slight decrease in the number of residential mortgages in arrears over 90 days and an increase in the number of permanently restructured mortgages in October, according to the Department of Finance.
The Limerick intermediate team is still without a manager, but, in a compromise that was backed unanimously at a meeting of the county board in Claughaun GAA club last night, the dispute that had threatened to throw the county back into the chaos it had witnessed only three years ago was finally resolved.
MYTHS are the stories that groups tell themselves: the beautiful lies that allow life go on. This is a week of great myth making. In the death and interment of Nelson Mandela we are witnessing modern myth being made in front of our eyes. But myths can be pernicious and evil — corroding life as well as enhancing it.
Tipperary native Brian Lonergan fulfilled a long-standing ambition when his tricolour appeared on live TV during Sunday's NFL clash between the San Francisco 49ers and the Seattle Seahawks at Candlestick Park.
THE scandal at the Central Remedial Clinic is a gift to the Government. Here we have an organisation seemingly plundering charitable funds, to feather the nests of a group of Fianna Fáil insiders, all of whom can be linked easily to former Taoiseach Bertie Ahern.
An Irish music discovery company, founded after seeing a Swedish girl walk into a lamppost, believes they are on the same growth trajectory that led to Twitter and Instagram's multi-billion-dollar successes.