Wine: Borsao Garnacha 2011 Campo de Borja
Saturday, September 29, 2012
IT’S that time of year again and the calendar is stuffed with delicious events.
By Blake Creedon
To begin with, Portugal’s great wine tradition is centre stage at the next Power & Smullen tasting.
On Tuesday at 7.30pm in the Tea Rooms, Main Street, Lucan Village, Jean Smullen will present six Portuguese wines. Tickets are €12.50 from the shop; 01-6100363 or smullenbrian@gmail.com.
* Curious Wines has an exceptionally busy season of tutored tastings, promotions and dinners lined up — too many to list here, so take a look at www.curiouswines.ie. Highlights include the following. On Thursday, Oct 18 from 7pm, Gavin Quinney of Chateau Bauduc hosts a five-course dinner with matching wines at The Cornstore, Cornmarket Street, Cork. Tickets €45. There’s a magical mystery tasting tour (by bus) on Thursday, Oct 25 and, in November, an evening with movie star and New Zealand winemaker Sam Neill. Get more details of all these events on freephone 1800-991844 or at their shop on the Kinsale Road in Cork.
* There are food festivals. And then there’s Kinsale Gourmet Festival. Now in its 36th year, the annual beano is one of the longest-established events of its type and from Friday to Sunday, Oct 12 to 14, the antics will range from tours and tastings to a black-tie ball. See www.kinsalerestaurants.com or phone 021-4773571 for more.
Food and wine belong together of course and the festival is supported by a remarkable six of Ireland’s wine importers and distributors — Barry & Fitzwilliam, Christy’s, Findlater, Karwigs, Nash’s, and Searsons.
The latter company is doubly relevant today as I continue looking at highlight reds from their recent tasting. You’ll find details of every wine on www.searsons.com as well as all stockists.
I listed just a selection of those stockists last week as examples, but to raise a glass to the gourmets, here are a further four in Cork: Matsons Wine Store, Bandon; 1601 Off Licence, Kinsale; JJ O’Driscoll’s Ballinlough, and No 21 Off-Licence at the foot of St Patrick’s Hill in the city.
Borsao Garnacha 2011 Campo de Borja, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €9.65 Depending on taste, the term ‘fruit bomb’ can be pejorative or praise. Either way, it’s not a bad description for the strawberry jam that is Campo Castillo Garnacha 2011 (€8.90) also from the Campo de Borja DO in Aragón . Far more interesting and better value is the Borsao: Pretty, plump, and elegant, with a mineral scent akin to coal tar.
San Giorgio Primitivo di Salento 2010, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €10 Last week I mentioned two wonderful rebukes to anti-pinot-grigio snobbery, both made by San Giorgio. Here’s a red from the heel of Italy made by the same company. It’s all well-ripened plums — dark, mature, and elegant — and the grape is primitivo (aka zinfandel) a name which I believe translates as ‘Snobbery? No thanks, I’d prefer to enjoy myself’.
Sangiovese di Puglia San Giorgio 2011, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €9.15 It’s no coincidence that, in recent weeks, a remarkable number of the highlights on this page hailed from just a handful of regions — bits of France (Loire, Rhône, and Languedoc-Roussillon alike); bits of Spain; southern Italy and its islands. A wine made with in the hot Med? From a grape named after Jove’s blood? You’d expect something racy hot but in actual fact it’s more crisp and competent than flamboyant.
Cave de Tain Syrah 2009, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €11.50 Anyone can make expensive wine. Much more impressive are the wine firms that can and do make brilliant affordable basics. Never mind the Crozes Hermitage — I admire the excellent Cave de Tain co-op most for this floral, fruity IGP Collines-Rhodaniennes and its partner white marsanne featured last week.
Luigi Bosca Finca la Linda malbec, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €11.25 Is Searsons’ range entirely made up of red-and-white pairs? I didn’t see Bodega Luigi Bosca’s viognier at the tasting but have fond memories of that spicy white. Here from the 2011 vintage is an apt red counterpart — forest fruits, tremendously rich and meaty. And no need to trade up to the reserva.
Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2010, Independent wine shops via Searsons; RRP €13.20 Searsons have other attractive Italian red styles such as the round-rumped Il Bucco Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2010 (€11.70) but to me this is where it’s at: All of that richness and spice, but in the shape of a firm, elegant, and polite aromatic.
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