Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant review: La Pizzeria, Co Louth

Some chefs have reputations they don’t deserve; others definitely so.

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Restaurant review: Crawford Gallery Café, Cork

THERE are moments, just passing ones, but moments of real promise, at this time of the year when the hard, cobalt blue of the cold winter sky is softened by strands of viridian light, an energising, germinating light that promises that spring is coming on the next train; that the circle is indeed unbroken.

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Restaurant review: The Linden Tree, Co Kildare

THERE’S a brilliant scene in Woody Allen’s 1980 movie Stardust Memories where he is sitting in a stationary train carriage, his companions doleful — harried refugees straight out of a Diane Arbus photoshoot.

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Restaurant Review: Elbow Lane

ONE CONSEQUENCE of the global economic kerfuffle was the increased clamour for culinary comfort, nostalgia for food that evoked the safe haven of childhood, when all was right with the world.

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Restaurant review: Seabank Bistro, Dublin

WE FIRST catch a glimpse of the Seabank Bistro last summer — the sun is beaming down, we are driving by wishing we had a convertible; there are diners in summer clothes languishing by outdoor tables, dipping into the al fresco food and sipping on chilled white wine.

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Restaurant Review: Zamora, Cork

THE people behind Zamora, one of several welcome new restaurants in Cork City, may have taken inspiration from Mary Howitt’s lines ...

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Restaurant review: The Green Hen, Dublin 2

AND YOUR starter for 10 is how many movie stars can you name from their photos on the walls of the gents’ toilets.

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Restaurant review:¬†Mulcahy’s Restaurant, Kenmare, Co Kerry

TIME was that when a broth of an Irishman — and the long, curious journey towards self-realisation has suggested I may be one — decided to visit a vegetarian restaurant it was like going to the zoo. 

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Restaurant review: Scholars Restaurant, Drogheda

Tony Clayton Lea visits Scholars Restaurant in Drogheda.

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Restaurant Review: Caffe Italiano, Dublin

AN ITALIAN restaurant in Temple Bar? Keep still thy beating heart and quell thy cynicism. 

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Restaurant Review: Sage restaurant, Cork

A graphically well-designed menu suggests cheering possibility like a well-dressed Christmas tree levitating on a bed of beautifully-packed gifts, some labelled with your name in generous Auntie Betty’s clear, strong, knowing hand. 

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Restaurant Review: Spa Seafoods, Kerry

The time is coming up to 3pm, the day is Friday, and the following conversation occurs in Spa Seafoods between a member of staff and a mature woman who has obviously been to the restaurant a few times before.

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Restaurant Review: The Steakhouse, Kinsale, Co Cork

IF Percy French’s venerable sparring partners Abdul Abulbul Amir and Ivan Skavinsky Skavar still get together for a Christmas jaw-wag, to talk about old, old times when men were men, “when that son of the desert, in battle aroused, could spit 20 men on his spear”, it’s hard to think that those noble cuirassiers would go anywhere other than a proper, belt-stretching steakhouse.

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Restaurant Review: Vintage Kitchen, Dublin 2

WE have been to smaller restaurants but usually they’ve been located in much larger cities than Dublin — hideaways in side streets and alleyways in Paris and New York spring to mind. 

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Restaurant Review: The Pepperstack, Co Cork

The Pepperstack Bistro at Rosie’s Bar in Lower Aghada, Co Cork is a bistro like Paul O’Connell is a rugby player, like Graham Norton is an entertainer. 

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Restaurant Review: Havana Tapas Bar, Dublin 2

ANY business that manages to keep its head above water for 15 years must have something good going for it, and so it proves with Havana Tapas Bar, a cosy place bang in the centre of Dublin’s Restaurant Row.

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Restaurant Review: Huguenot French Bistro & Wine Bar, Cork

I’M NOT sure how many points opening — or in this case rejuvenating — a restaurant registers in the National Optimism Rebuilding Programme.

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Restaurant Review: Brabazon, Slane, Co Meath

HE setting within which Brabazon Restaurant reclines is beautiful, and we’ll warrant there are few places in Ireland to beat it. 

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Restaurant review: A ’square’ meal deal in Blarney

IN A WORLD where everyone of Roy Keane’s self-serving, confrontational utterances is treated as if it were a recently-discovered Heaney poem on the nature of egomania.

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Restaurant review: Pump up the volume at Drury Buildings

SITTING comfortably? Let’s begin, shall we? 

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