Recipes from the winners of the Irish Food Writers Guild Awards

Some awards are really are worth winning. Among those are the Irish Food Writers Guild Awards established in 1990, says Darina Allen.

These were one of the first of the kind in the country and remain unique. No one can enter their own company or their product into the awards and so they are unaware that they have been nominated or shortlisted. 

The guild is the sole nominating and decision-making body and as Georgina Campbell, president of the guild says, the decisions are arrived at by a PR system and it’s “all incredibly correct”.

Products must be made with Irish produce or the main ingredient must be manufactured here. 

The announcement of the 2017 winners was made at a celebratory lunch at Patrick Guilbaud, two- star Michelin restaurant in Dublin where head chef Guillaume Lebrun wove the winners’ products into a special menu with great panache.

This year’s IFWG awards went to artisan producers. 

In no particular order, there was The Friendly Farmer — Ronan Byrne from Galway who has been producing high-quality chickens since 2007 when he identified a strong local demand from chefs and mothers desperate for tasty chicken. 

He produces 115 Hubbard chickens a week on a grass-based system and has developed an on-site abattoir. He also rears, free-range pigs, beef, cattle, turkeys, geese and ducks in season. 

How wonderful would it be to have a Friendly Farmer in every parish? He sells direct to his customers through a farm shop in Moycullen and another in Galway. 

www.thefriendlyfarmer.blogspot.ie 

Smoked Duck from Anthony Cresswell at Ummera Smokehouse near Timoleague also won an award. 

Anthony is also famous for the quality of this smoked salmon, dry-cured bacon, chicken and picanha — a Brazilian- style cut of meat. 

He chooses his raw materials carefully, he favours Silver Hill duck for tenderness and its generous layer of fat — the result, a delicious versatile product that is the combined creation of two exemplary Irish producers. 

www.ummera.com 

A third award went to Cuinneóg Irish farmhouse country butter and natural buttermilk from Co Mayo. 

Tom and Sheila Butler started to make this butter in their kitchen in 2009 and have since won many awards. Breda inherited the skills from her parents. 

www.cuinneog.com 

Another award went to Bertha’s Revenge — an original craft gin made at Ballyvolane House by old friends, Justin Green and Anthony Jackson.

Bertha’s Revenge is distilled with whey alcohol sourced from the Carbery dairy plant and the milk of dairy from cows milk produced by Co Cork dairy farmers. 

The spirit is distilled three times with botanicals including coriander, bitter orange, cardamom, cumin and clove as well as some locally foraged plants like alexander seeds, elderflower and sweet woodruff. 

This truly Irish gin continues the field-to-fork tradition that has long been at the heart of Ballyvolane House. 

www.ballyvolanehouse.ie 

Mag Kerwin of Goatsbridge Trout Farm in Co Kilkenny is quite a force of nature and she won an IFWG award. 

She continues to add to her Eat Trout range of produce and to promote Irish food in general. 

www.goatsbridgetrout.ie 

The (brilliant) Little Milk Company was also awarded but more about it in another column. 

Goatsbridge Cold Smoked Trout with Bertha’s Revenge Gin and Tonic Foam and Pickled Ginger

Serves 8

  • For the tomato jelly
  • 3 leaves of gelatine
  • 500g ripe plum tomatoes
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch of caster sugar
  • dash of Tabasco sauce

For the gin and tonic foam

  • 2 leaves of gelatine
  • 400ml tonic water
  • 0.5g agar agar
  • 100ml Bertha’s Revenge Irish Milk Gin

To assemble

  • 1 large piece of Goatsbridge Cold Smoked Trout, cut into bite-sized pieces
  • pickled ginger, cut into bite-sized pieces

To make the tomato jelly, soak the leaves of gelatine in a bowl of cold water for about five minutes. 

Blend the tomatoes in a food processor, then pass through a fine muslin cloth. 

Season the tomato water with salt, pepper, sugar and Tabasco sauce. Gently warm the tomato water, then add the hydrated gelatine. Leave to set.

To make the gin and tonic foam, soak the leaves of gelatine in a bowl of cold water for about five minutes. 

Boil the tonic water briefly with the agar. Remove from the heat and add the hydrated gelatine and the gin. Leave to cool, then place in a cream siphon charged with one carbon dioxide canister.

To assemble, place one tablespoon of the tomato jelly in a small cup or shot glass. 

Add one or two small pieces of smoked trout, then one small piece of pickled ginger. Finish with gin and tonic foam and serve straight away.

All recipes were created for the Irish Food Writers’ Guild Food Awards 2017 by executive chef Guillaume Lebrun of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2.

Salad of Ummera Smoked Silver Hill Duck Breast with Beetroot and Horseradish

Serves 4

  • 4 cooked beetroots cut into small cubes
  • olive oil
  • Cabernet sauvignon vinegar
  • Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
  • 4 Ummera Smoked Silver Hill Duck Breasts, thinly sliced
  • 2 ripe pears, cored and thinly sliced
  • prepared horseradish sauce, to serve
  • pistachios, to garnish
  • micro herbs, to garnish

METHOD

Dress the cooked cubed beetroot in olive oil and cabernet sauvignon vinegar and season. 

To serve, place the beetroot on a cold plate and add a few dots of olive oil and vinegar. Neatly arrange the thinly sliced smoked duck and pears on top. 

Finish with a small quenelle of horseradish sauce and garnish with halved pistachios, micro herbs and coarsely ground black pepper.

Friendly Farmer’s Pasture-Reared Chicken with Lemon Viennoise and Sweet Potato Purée

Serves 4

  • 1 x Friendly Farmer pasture-reared whole small chicken

For the sweet potato purée

  • rock salt
  • 6 sweet potatoes
  • 100g butter, diced
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lemon viennoise

  • 500g fresh white breadcrumbs
  • 400g butter, diced
  • 70g grated Parmesan
  • 2 egg yolks
  • zest of 3 lemons
  • pinch of saffron powder

To serve

  • wilted pak choi
  • roast red pepper
  • roast chicken jus

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 230C.

Pour a thick layer of rock salt in a baking tray. Scrub the unpeeled sweet potatoes well, then pat them dry and nestle them into the bed of salt. 

Cover the tray with foil and roast in the oven for about 1 hour, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, split them open and scoop the flesh into a Thermomix or food processor along with the butter and salt and pepper to taste. Blend to a smooth purée and keep warm.

Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C.

To make the lemon viennoise, simply mix all the ingredients together in a food processor.

Remove the legs and wishbone from the chicken so that you’re left with just the crown.

Stuff the lemon viennoise under the skin, then place the chicken on a large baking tray. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, until completely cooked through.

Set aside to rest for about 10 minutes before carving.

Serve the carved chicken on top of a spoonful of sweet potato purée. Finish with wilted pak choi and a few small strips of roast red pepper and drizzle with roast chicken jus.

Cuinneog Buttermilk Ice Cream with Pear and White Chocolate Café au Lait

Serves 12

For the ice cream

  • 2 litres Cuinneog Buttermilk
  • 450g egg yolks
  • 360g caster sugar
  • 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthways and seeds scraped out

For the pear sorbet

  • 1kg pear purée
  • 360g caster sugar
  • 10ml Poire Williams
  • 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthways and seeds scraped out
  • 100g white chocolate, melted

For the marinated pears

  • 2 ripe pears
  • 100ml freshly brewed espresso, cooled

To serve

  • chocolate biscuits, crushed

METHOD

To make the ice cream, bring the milk to the boil in a large saucepan, then immediately remove from the heat. 

Mix the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla seeds together in a large heatproof bowl. Pour over the scalded milk and whisk to combine. 

Allow to cool, then churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions and freeze.

To make the pear sorbet, place the pear purée and all sugar in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and add the Poire Williams and vanilla seeds. 

Allow to cool, then churn most of it (save a little for decorating the finished dish) in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions and freeze.

When the sorbet has frozen solid, break the chocolate into pieces and place in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. 

Scoop the sorbet into 20g balls and dip them in the melted white chocolate, then place back in the freezer until needed.

Peel and core the pears and use a Parisienne scoop to make balls. Pour the cooled espresso in a bowl and add the pears. Allow to marinate for at least a few hours or overnight.

Serve a quenelle of ice cream on a spoonful of crushed chocolate biscuits with balls of the pear sorbet, marinated pears and dots of the remaining pear purée alongside.

HOT TIPS

Bake your own Bread and Bring it Home: On this half day course, a combination of demonstration and hands-on session, you’ll learn how to make several different bread recipes from traditional white and brown soda and multi seed, to a really simple brown and white yeast bread technique and super quick scones. After a short demonstration, it’s into the kitchen for a hands-on session to bake your chosen loaves to bring home. Friday May 12,

After a short demonstration, it’s into the kitchen for a hands-on session to bake your chosen loaves to bring home. Friday May 12, www.cookingisfun.ie 

East Cork Slow Food Event: David Beecher will give a talk on soil, life beneath our feet on Thursday, May 11, at 7pm at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. Tickets €6/€8. Phone 021-4646785 or www.slowfoodireland.com 

Litfest 2017 is ramping up now: The theme for this year’s Litfest is ‘Local Hero, Global Hero’. Join us for two days of foraging walks, lunches; pop up guest chef dinners, panel discussions, free fringe activities and cookery demonstrations.

Check out Sunil Ghai’s cookery demonstration at the BCS on Saturday, May 20, at 9.30am. Sunil is the leading Indian chef in Ireland, winning an impressive array of awards including FOOD&WINE Magazine’s Chef of the Year 2009.

Wrappies: Have you discovered these environmentally friendly food wrappers? They do the same as clingfilm except you can wash, dry and reuse them. They are made from cotton dipped in beeswax tree resin and jojoba oil.

So you can feel like you’re saving the planet during tasks like making packed lunches. Available from Madeline McKeever, tel: 028-38184.

So you can feel like you’re saving the planet during tasks like making packed lunches. Available from Madeline McKeever, tel: 028-38184.

www.littlemilkcompany.ie 

www.cookingisfun.ie

www.darinaallen.blogspot.ie 


More in this Section

The Fit Foodie: Protein-packed recipes for a post-workout snack

The Menu: Food news with Joe McNamee

Restaurant Review: Craft Restaurant, 208 Harolds Cross, Dublin 6

Here's why everyone's drinking Spanish wines


Lifestyle

A helicopter put a piano on the 150-foot roof of Blarney Castle and other stories from the Cork Jazz Festival archives

Jazz Memories: Famous faces share their favourite moments

Live music review: The Horrors - Icy genius in a thrillingly intimate setting

Choosing a sheltered spot for Maples is vital

More From The Irish Examiner